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Black Caesar 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 599
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Aug 9, 2002

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This is a once popular route that has fallen into obscurity, perhaps because it's crimpy and hard for the grade. It is three routes right of Debaser, two routes left of the The Pollinator, and can be recognized by a vertical face down low giving way to a resting hole below a hanging bulge, which comprises the crux. It is also a bit left of a leaning tree.

Hard pulls off the ground (past a hueco that used to seep) gain the vertical panel, which offers sustained, crimpy climbing all the way to the hole below the bulge. Take care on the clips, as they are strenuous and never that far off the deck.

Rest up in the hole, then travel out the double-bulge above to an in-your-face move on hidden pockets to gain the anchor, a strenuous clip in-and-of-itself.


7-9 draws.

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By richard magill
Aug 19, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Another line that deserves 2 stars (and would get 3 stars in most areas)! I would agree with Matt's comment about it being hard for the grade, however.
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 27, 2012

The name came from a Public Enemy song "Burn Hollywood Burn" and is a reference to the '70s blaxploitation film Black Caesar. We used to do this as a warmup when working other routes in The Arsenal.
By D-Storm
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The movement on this route is awesome. The main drawbacks are that it rarely gets climbed and dirt has settled into the jugs. It's deceptively hard, too. I was trying this as a warm-down project and finally tried it fresh as a warmup, and it was still freakin' hard.

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