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Piedra River - Lower West
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Become the Problem T 
Black  S 
Black Beauty S 
Black Magic Spell T,S 
Cattle Drive S 
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Main Traverse 
Main Traverse 2.0 
Mild Hops S 
Nescafe S 
Nick & Todd TR 
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November Reign S 
Practice Wall S,TR 
Raising Awareness S 
Rave Mode S 
Refuse To Suffer S 
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Taster's Choice S 
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Up Above It 
Van Gogh's S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Black Beauty 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jason Meyer & Wayne Lappeman
Page Views: 968
Submitted By: s.price on Jul 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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The crux is at 1/3 height. Black Beauty is thin for the grade at its crux but cruiser for upper 2/3rds.


It is 40 feet left of November Reign on a black ramp.


5 or 6 bolts to an anchor.

Per A. Bandos: the anchors are placed on top of the wall. The anchors consist of just bolt hangers and no chains or carabiners from which to lower.

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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jun 30, 2013

Good route, a bit tough for noobs, but at 8+, it should be.... I was fooled, thinking I was on the 5.7 (which is to the left). Much more satisifed even though I struggled with the sequence through the crux. I am pretty sure it has 6 bolts....
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Oct 7, 2013

I was setting it up for my kids and had a hold break. First time I've ever whipped on an 8. I left plenty of other suspect holds for others! Don't clean this on rap - the rope pull can be tiring due to anchor placement.
By A. Bandos
Jun 21, 2016

The anchors are unfortunately placed on top of the wall. The anchors consist of just bolt hangers and no chains or carabiners to lower from. We traversed to anchors to the left to lower.
By Chip Loomis
May 31, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

No sure about the flow of this climb? If the bolts are followed directly, it is at least a 5.10 move about halfway up. Otherwise, traversing right to the arête creates a chance for a good pendulum fall. If you make the move, then it is an awkward down and stretched arm clip to get the bolt. Did I miss a move?

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