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Hole Wall
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Black Beauty 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Achey
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 2, 2009

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Description 

Black Beauty is a quality line on great, beautifully featured limestone. The guidebook only gives this one star but I thought this was a route very deserving of 3 stars.

Scramble up some low-angle, easy but chossy terrain to the first bolt. Start with steep climbing on good holds to a difficult crux at the third bolt which is best climbed to the left. This crux on its own is probably at least 11+. Above, the difficulty eases and you can get a good rest at some nice, big incut jugs. Finish on beautiful gray limestone with a difficult crux that the guidebook describes as "techno slab." I'm not sure what "techno slab" is but when I first encountered the crux I was completely stymied and a little miffed by how "weird" it felt, especially when there is a line of good holds 5-10 feet left. After figuring things out, incorporating a sequential sequence, I fell in love with this upper section. The rock is great and once you unlock the puzzle at the top it's a real treat.

Location 

On the left side of the Hole Wall, about 50 feet right of Within Range.

Protection 

8 bolts.


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