REI Community
Stately Pleasure Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival T 
Black Angel T 
Boltway T 
Cross Reference T 
Daddy's Little Girl T 
Death Crack T 
Dixie Peach T 
Eunuch T 
Footnote T 
Get Slick T 
Great White Book T 
Hermaphrodite Flake T 
Mosquito T 
Shadow Nose T 
South Crack T 
Sweet Nothings T 
Table of Contents T 
Turning Japanese T 
Way We Were, The T 
West Country T 
White Flake T 

Black Angel 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Falkenstein and Don Reid, July 1979
Page Views: 3,436
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mike Hernandez (belayed by Marc Hill) leading &quo...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


A good challenging lieback/finger crack climb. Bust a powerful, awkward move off the ground and continue underclinging, jamming, and liebacking the awesome right-angling crack to the top.


Just west of Stately Pleasure Dome. Park just east of the Murphy Creek picnic area. The route, a right-angling fingercrack/flake that intersects a prominent black streak, faces southwest and will be visible from the road.


Lots of small stuff. I took:
Doubles from blue alien to .75 camalot
Single #1 and #2

There's no anchor on top, so bring 2 extra .75 camalots + 1 #12 BD Stopper for the anchor on top, + 3 long slings for extending the pieces over a blunt edge. If you're going to run laps, this makes a great TR anchor.

Photos of Black Angel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Racking at the base of Black Angel.
Racking at the base of Black Angel.

Comments on Black Angel Add Comment
Show which comments
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 6, 2015

This route is equipped with bolts and chains at the anchor. No need to walk-off.
By Kelly Rich
Jun 9, 2016

I suppose chains at the top are an improvement. It was a hassle to walk off. Still, something about adding bolts to an otherwise boltless climb; the climb certainly isn't as naturally picturesque and aesthetically beautiful.

In the first real TMeadows guide (the underground guide written by Alan Nelson), the route is the first one listed in the guide and is titled Black Angel of Death. Seeing that the name it now bares is given by the FA'ists/guidebook authors, I suppose Black Angel it is. Still, I wonder if a name-change was made early on, for one reason or another.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About