REI Community
Black and Tan

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beauty Pageant S 
Bed Head S 
Block Party S 
Breakin' the Law S 
Crime and Punishment S 
Criminal Mischief S 
Da Riddler S 
Dissonance S 
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 
Dull Boy S 
Glutton for Punishment S 
House of Cards S 
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 
Jumanji S 
Learning Curve S 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Minus Five S 
Pangs of Ignorance S 
Random Penis Rubbings S 
Redolence S 
Resolve S 
Shades of Grey S 
Shades of Grey - Left S 
Smoking Drum S 
Unknown New Route S 

Black and Tan Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,700'
Location: 37.0175, -113.8518 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,163
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 11, 2007

76° | 53°

68° | 51°

66° | 49°

68° | 49°

71° | 54°

74° | 55°
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mrcrimpy on Old World Lullaby at Black n Tan

In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise


Black and Tan is composed of solid, rough, sharp limestone with black and tan stripes (surprise). If you fell on a lower-angled section you would either stick like velcro or be shredded (I recall someone describing it as climbing on tiny fishhooks).

The crag faces roughly east.

There are over 30 bolted routes here (32 named routes plus several projects in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah, 2nd Ed., plus at least one additional project and at least one other completed route not in the guidebook).

The routes are a good mix from 5.7 to 5.14 with the largest number in the 5.11 range.

Getting There 

From the Woodbury Road turnoff drive 3.7 miles (3.2 according to Goss). Shortly after crossing the fourth cattle guard the parking (and the crag) is on the right.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.2 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Black and Tan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Black and Tan:
Glutton for Punishment   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Redolence   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Dissonance   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Beauty Pageant   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Crime and Punishment   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Resolve   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Criminal Mischief   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unknown New Route   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Magic Carpet Ride   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Shades of Grey   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Random Penis Rubbings   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dull Boy   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Jumanji   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Da Riddler   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Smoking Drum   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Black and Tan

Featured Route For Black and Tan
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Eaton holding onto the last of the pockets, lo...

Jumanji 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Utah : Saint George : ... : Black and Tan
Sweet pockets to some face crimping....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Black and Tan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: mrcrimpy on Old World Lullaby 5.14b
mrcrimpy on Old World Lullaby 5.14b
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the wildlife that you might encounter at t...
Some of the wildlife that you might encounter at t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Can someone help me place this photo?  I am wonder...
BETA PHOTO: Can someone help me place this photo? I am wonder...
Rock Climbing Photo: Black and Tan (at roughly noon on March 5, 2007)
BETA PHOTO: Black and Tan (at roughly noon on March 5, 2007)

Comments on Black and Tan Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Mar 11, 2007
Unfortunately I didn't spend much time climbing here. I was with my family, and the wife and one child were feeling kinda sick. In fact, we only got on one 5.7 (Glutton for Punishment). I wanted to do one more, but the sharp rock really spooked my kids. Here is the conversation between the 43-year-old father and his 17-year-old daughter as we pulled the rope:

Father: Gwen, wanna belay me on that 10a next to us?
Daughter: Uhhh...
Father: C'mon, it looks like a lot of fun.
Daughter: I don't know Dad, if you fall you'll get shredded...
Father: Oh, it's not so bad. Besides, I won't fall on a 10a.
Daughter: Dad...
Father (increasingly plaintive): C'mon Gwen, we drove all this way...
Daughter (refusing to feel guilty): No.

Hopefully I'll do more on a subsequent trip.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Mar 3, 2010
in about 20 years that one may come back to haunt ya gwen! LOL...

great post, great info: thanks
By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Mar 3, 2014
This page would be a lot better if somebody added some more beta pictures to define where the bolt lines run. The guidebook is pretty out-of-date and incorrect, especially with the left side of the crag.
By Courtney Getman
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 13, 2016
Found something at this crag on 3/12. Let me know if you lost something here!

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