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Black and Tan 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Gregg Purnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,480
Submitted By: gregg purnell on Jul 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Black and Tan.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This has lots of good moves if you like crimpers and sloper jugs. It is very well-protected but still scary! You might like this. It is just left of the 2 cracks on the far right. Follow the "black and tan" stain up the slab.


10 bolts with chains for the anchor*.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 9, 2015
By Chris Cavallaro
Apr 18, 2006

Is this route open yet? Where exactly is it on the wall?
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
May 4, 2006

As far as I can tell it's been open for over 5 years. Though, I would put it more at 5.13b. Very slabby, with an insane one foot balance crux up to some weird slopey gaston, if memory serves. When you hike up to the Wall of the '90s, go up and right. Continue past 10 Digit Dialing and The Strange Iron Handle, down and around the corner. It is the next bolted line on the wall, and should have one or two steel links screwed onto bolts. Not sure if they're for bailing, or if someone chose them instead of a biner. The start is a bit chossy, and leads to a high first clip. If you start going up hill again and come to the furthest bolted line (Interstellar Overdrive) on the wall, you've gone too far. Good luck, this climb is stout!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 16, 2008
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I am sorry to report I broke off two of the crux holds yesterday. One is the right-facing flake entering the crux below the lower clip, it is now a smaller almost undercling crimp. Yikes! This hold may not last long either.
Also, at the crux bolt, in the weird gaston dish, a small part of the smallest usuable two finger crimp broke off.

This may bump the rating a letter. It will still go, but I would put it at 13b now.

The footwork is insane on this route!
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 17, 2008

Has this ever been redpointed?
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 17, 2008

It has been redpointed prior to the hold breaking at the crux.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 4, 2009

Got on this thing today on TR - whoooo! stiff! Couldn't pull the crux moves down low, between bolt 3 and 4, I believe. I couldn't even conceive of a sequence that would work, but I know it's there and I'll be back! The rest of the route was tons of fun, with improbable looking moves that leave you smiling, and screaming, all the way to the top.

Does anyone know if this has been sent since the holds have broken? I haven't given in yet, but I may need some beta in the coming weeks if things don't go well for me.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Most likely has NOT been sent in its current state. Go get it, Jay!

BTW, what is your wing span?
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 6, 2009

LOL, good question, Darren; wingspan is 6'. I toyed with the idea of making the long reach, but I think I'm gonna have to give in and use either the gaston/dish or the micro-crimp underneath it. Gonna have to get up there and spend some time on that move, the other day it was getting dark and cold and didn't want to put my belayer through too much hell. Just out of curiosity, have you pulled the crux moves? Is there some beta floating around out there in the land of MP?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 6, 2009
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I came soooooo close making the crux moves on lead in its current state. Even with the wingspan, you still have to make a bunch of moves and not gain too much ground in order to hit the arete. PM sent....

I would give it 3 stars if the rest of the route was consistent, but as it stands, it's kind of a piss-hard one move wonder. And the rock is still pretty friable. The crappy footholds that you do get won't last that long either. Unfortunate....
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I jumped on this yesterday after encouragement from Jay (from comments above) and found that it still goes without being absurdly hard. Maybe 13b or c? I'm 5'9", and reach wasn't an issue as I never went all the way out to the arete (until after the crux). Just terrible feet and hands to sort of balance your way through to the jugs. Not wanting to be too spray-y, just hoping to see people out putting this one away again! My beta was pretty straightforward, but if anyone's interested, I'd be happy to share. Also, the holds I used seem solid and unlikely to break again, which is nice if you're going to be putting the time in on it.

And I agree with Jay/Darren, the top of the route is really cool, but the crux is significantly harder than the rest. If you like your routes with legit cruxes, this may be a good one.
By chris way
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I climbed Black and Tan today and felt that it's probably in the 13a range and not more difficult as is speculated above; I would be wary of inflating the grade - it is an odd style and as a result might feel difficult for other reasons. It's an awesome route and technically very interesting - well worth climbing. I felt it climbed like Public Solitude - so if you liked this one, go do that and have fun.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 18, 2013
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Glad to hear it has cleaned up, Chris! This was not the case 5 years ago. How would you compare the difficulties to its neighbor to the left?
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Interesting, I thought Black and Tan to be opposite from Public Solitude in almost every way. This was cruxy on tiny holds with good rests on non-vertical slabbing while Public was a pumpy sprint on big slopers from bottom to top. Just goes to show how perception varies, I suppose. Agreed that this one was interesting though. I don't think I've done a move like it before.

Darren - as for its neighbor, I thought this was a touch harder than the first pitch of Double Stout solely because linking the two cruxes was low percentage for me. They're great training for one another though, balancing on terrible feet and all.

Hope you get back soon and finish off that Double Stout....
By chris way
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Funny, I thought they felt about the same, but the first pitch of Double Stout is probably a little more temperature-dependent and has a clipping crux that isn't found on Black and Tan. It was a hot day though - cool routes.

What I meant with my comparison to PS was the technical feet and body tension are required; both routes are also very short. Either way, go climb on them. Be psyched, and don't forget we're just talking about rocks.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I remember having a long sling on crux of B&T, as I did not do the moves using the second left side-pull. At one point, my draws were on both of these routes but must have vanished over the years.

Chris, a few long draws at choice spots on DS will help with some tough or early clips and also with rope drag when running the pitch in its entirety.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

"Either way, go climb on them. Be psyched, and don't forget we're just talking about rocks."

Total agreement.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I have only tried the climb once now and thought it was incredible! But I was curious about the first crux. I think that the move is to go out left to the good, sloping sidepull, then right hand to a small crimp, then pump up to a really bad, 2 finger crimp on spikes, then match the left hand in a slopey dish, and bump to the arête from there. Does anyone have any beta on the first crux???
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Oct 15, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

That's pretty much what I did too. Though once I got the slopey dish with the LH, I bumped RH out right to a gaston that you can kind of lean over into. From there, it worked to either sink onto the RH and cross LH all the way out to the jug on the arete or press up LH to a decent hold that's hard to see. Might depend on your height which is easier? Good luck!
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

So, I have revisited this climb and can do every move but the first crux. I am curious if anyone has any beta for the first crux...I am 5'10" with a +2 ape index. I wanted to go to the arete down low but wasn't sure if that is easier or going to the crimps up high was. Also, how do the feet go through the section...if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear it. GREAT ROUTE!!! :) Last bolt to the anchor is such a pleasure...spooky yet safe. I popped basically horizontal and took a cool whip. Spooky, yet safe. It's kinda a head game! Get on it!!!

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