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Moyer's Buttress
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Biven's Crack T 

Biven's Crack 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pete Biven (1955)
Page Views: 8
Submitted By: farkas.time on Sep 2, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Start here.


A bouldery start leads to jams and jugs in right trending crack up to a slopey, 10-foot long hand traverse. Exit right to early.

The wall is slightly overhung, deceptively sustained thus pumpy, and a sandbag at 5.10b. Protection is very good, but make sure to protect the follower for the traverse, or they could take an uncomfortable swing.


Start 5 feet right the arete, just around the corner from Moyer's Buttress in a right-trending flake/crack system. The line is obvious. Climb through ferns to the top, then around the buttress to the left to get down.


Gear to 4" and couple long draws for the traverse. Take a #4 Camelot and some small stuff for an anchor just at the finish.

Photos of Biven's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Biven Crack (5.10b/c), excluding start. Route tren...
BETA PHOTO: Biven Crack (5.10b/c), excluding start. Route tren...

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