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Bits and Pieces 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John ???
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: Keebler on May 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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16-May-2010: Pavel leading Bits 'n' Pieces (5.9)

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Description 

This is a fun route that climbs up a water streak. The rock is good and the climbing is fun. Be aware that there are additional bolts that continue straight up after the 5th bolt. The rock becomes less stable and the anchor bolts take two ropes to reach the ground. You are better off traversing right to the three bolt anchor.

Protection 

This is the furthest route to the left on the wall. It continues up 5 bolts and then traverses right onto a ledge where you have a three bolt anchor.


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By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

See Brad Young's latest Pinnacles guidebook (2007) for info on Bits and Pieces Extension (5.9). The route is ~90' high and has 8 bolts. The anchor is shared with Wet Paranoia (5.9, TR) and one 60m rope was sufficient to rap to the ground.
By Isaiah Foulks
Dec 7, 2016

I don't know what the deal is with the 3 bolt anchor. Just punch it strait up to the 2 bolt anchor. Solid. Extending the second to last bolt will keep the rope from making a big "Z" around that giant knob, thus reducing a lot of drag. Definitely check out Wet Paranoia after this route :)

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