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Bitches' Terror 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Walt Shipley & Eric Kohl - 1990
Page Views: 1,474
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

This is a well protected Shipley & Kohl route. It can be accessed by climbing Bishop's Terrace halfway before traversing left to the belay ledge which is the start of the route. Another option is to climb Bishop's Terrace to the top of pitch one and rappel to the base of the route.

Clip bolts and pull on enjoyable edges. The crux move is just above the 7th bolt, and a wild .10d section under a roof finishes this climb off with excitement. Definitely worth the trip back to Churchbowl!

Location 

This is the Bolted line left of Bishop's Terrace. From the top of the climb, rap twice with one rope to reach the ground.

Protection 

Take 11 quickdraws.


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Nov 14, 2011

Fun alert!

This climb, which I don't think gets done nearly as often as adjacent lines, delivers. Do it: you won't regret it. The 5.11 crux is short, and the 5.10+ topout airy and thrilling. One of the best in the neighborhood.
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Feb 17, 2014

Definitely a full value climb here!

I don't know about the crux being short bit though, maybe in terms of overall vertical length, but the sequence had 4-5 tricky moves in a row with the most committing section with the bolt at my feet. That said, the fall is pretty clean as long as you come off in control.

The moves to the anchor are steep and fun, but everything down low is off-vertical and techy.

Rapping from the fixed nut and bolt at the base of the climb with a single 60M cord gets your feet to a ledge 2 feet off the ground.
By mpech
Sep 21, 2015

fantastic sport climb. Crux felt harder than 11a...ended up doing some difficult compression moves
By Bruno Beltran
From: Stanford, CA
May 29, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Never seen anyone else on this climb, which is surprising given how fun and approachable it is!

The crux is getting to the climb on busy days, since the easiest approach is to rappel with a single 60m from the top of Bishops Terrace, which may involve waiting in line during the summer.

But, if you have patience or are pushy/early enough, you're rewarded with a super-tightly-bolted, mega-fun climb that feels too much like a "sport climb" to be in Yosemite, and too much like a Yosemite climb to be anywhere else.

A year later, I have yet to get any other valley 5.11's clean, so maybe the grade is a bit soft? Or maybe the bolts gave me courage? Either way, I'll give it 5.11- for my ego's sake.

A single rap with a 60m gets you to a big ledge right above the ground near the start of Bishops terrace, and you can scramble down to the ground from there if you're careful.

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