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Bitch Free Zone 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Erik Benevente, Mike Levanduski (Sept. 2014)
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: Alex Bury on Sep 4, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Lower half

Description 

Clip two bolts then pull some steep moves to turn the roof. Follow the slab above past two more bolts.
Then climb the wall above to a two bolt anchor.

Location 

Currently the left-most line on the main cobble wall.

Protection 

Quickdraws.


Photos of Bitch Free Zone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper half
BETA PHOTO: Upper half
Rock Climbing Photo: Oooops
BETA PHOTO: Oooops

Comments on Bitch Free Zone Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 3, 2016
By michael w. levanduski
From: ventura
Sep 14, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

new route is open but needs a lot more cleaning.Eric free climbed on lead right after we spent 4 or 5 hours bolting up the head wall.I think people will call the line 5 11.Crux is turning the roof, and getting on the head wall is tricky as well.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 16, 2014

It's a bummer that someone would name a climb like this in a nice area where people come to learn how to climb. Can't think of anything better huh?
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Sep 16, 2014

Disappointing name, but hey, perhaps they read the Bill of Rights recently and got psyched. In any case, I'm happy that new routes get put up.
By Richard Shore
Sep 16, 2014

Here's an idea:

Let the route fall into obscurity; allow the moss and lichen to grow back on the rock. Somebody re-climb it 10 years from now and re-claim the FA and rename it whatever they want. Seems to be common practice nowadays amongst the bouldering contingent in the area. I'm thinking we can rename the whole area while we're at it - something along the lines of "Black Canyon of the Gunnison" if it isn't already taken.

Or, maybe we can respect the name given by the FAists, take the whining elsewhere, and keep this little page on the internet a "bitch free zone."
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Sep 16, 2014

True, Richard, true.

All of us (especially me, since I run the family blacksmithing business and am expecting a kid ANY day now) probably have better things to do than troll the internet and criticize people. But man, it is tempting sometimes...
By Bob Banks
Sep 16, 2014

Climbing is filled with unsavory/offensive/dumb names. In all the ninnying about the name, something of actual relevance has been glossed over (emphasis mine, as per usual):

"The route was cleaned and worked on top rope and then bolted on lead."

Huh?

"new route is open but needs a lot more cleaning.Eric free climbed on lead right after we spent 4 or 5 hours bolting up the head wall."

Again, huh?

If you're going to drop a rope down and clean/work the route, clean the f-ing route and bolt it properly.

Here's what needs to happen: Someone drop a rope down this route, clean the shit out of it, pull the old bolts, place new bolts where they should be, re-lead it like the sport route that it is, then re-name it "The Circus is in Town", cause there's some Bozo shit going down in Wheeler Gorge lately and this would fit right in.
By michael w. levanduski
From: ventura
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I think no matter how we climbed the line or what we called it people would still complain. Maybe it should be logged in as B. free zone so as not to offend. Thanks for all your input
By Bob Banks
Sep 17, 2014

"I think no matter how we climbed the line or what we called it people would still complain."

That speaks volumes.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Sep 17, 2014

Honest question to Michael: how does the line climb? Good? Awesome? I'll be going out there next week, and was hoping to check out the new routes. All ribbing aside, thanks for bolting. Always appreciated.
By Somedude
Aug 15, 2015

So how many people actually climbed it...........
By Michaeldifronzo
From: Newbury Park, CA
Apr 30, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

climbed it on thursday 4/28/16 pulling the roof was the crux for me. the run outs after the 3rd bolt were fun as well ;) the last 2 bolts before the anchor prove to be tough when pumped. needs to be cleaned for sure tho.
By Somedude
May 12, 2016

Thanks for giving it a go and the top could for sure use a smiggin of cleaning, but for the most part that would come with traffic and difference in beta. Wish more people would just look past a silly name and try a fun climb.
By michael w. levanduski
From: ventura
Jul 3, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Michael, nice to know people are trying the route. Eric and i had a really great time bolting up those lines. your review is right on, the run outs are fun and the route could use alittle more cleaning on top. thank you

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