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Bishop Quarry

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Bishop Quarry Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristin McNamara on Jan 13, 2004


84° | 52°

84° | 52°

83° | 53°

83° | 54°

86° | 54°
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BETA PHOTO: The infamous Bishop Peak Quarry. The Red arrow sh...

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Getting There 

If you have to ask, you'll never know.

Climbing Season

For the Bishop Peak area.

Weather station 1.6 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For Bishop Quarry

Omegaman 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  California : Central Coast : ... : Bishop Quarry
When we got done with our first quarry route, we decided to hop on this climb, primarily because I am a booty hound and there was a leaver biner hanging out on the third bolt. (The Slater book says this is where the crux is). The rock has an odd diagonal slant which makes the climbing a bit scary and committing (at least it was to us). We were just above the 3rd bolt when the guy came to tell us to get out, so we left the leaver biner there. ::salutes the rusting metal::...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Bishop Quarry Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Not quite at the quarry, a little more around the ...
BETA PHOTO: Not quite at the quarry, a little more around the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Can't climb at the quarry any longer, but here's a...
BETA PHOTO: Can't climb at the quarry any longer, but here's a...

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By John Knight
Jan 24, 2004
I'm convinced that the back quarry is not actually on private land. However, it's darn near impossible to get there without crossing private land. The adjacent private land owners patrol this area diligently and are not keen on people crossing their land. I was personally escorted off by a "nice" gentlemen w/a rifle and an ATV. My initial reaction is that we're better off avoiding the quarry. Although it may be public, controversy over access to this area (raised by neighbors), could spread to broader access questions at Bishop's. However, it does have good climbs and a sunny exposure. Would love to hear others thoughts on this matter!
By Nick Haupt
Jan 27, 2004
This place is a total choss pile. ive never had any problems with the land managers the two times i have gone there. wouldent recomend any of the climbs ive done there.
By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Jan 27, 2004
Looked into it further, c/o Neil Havlik and the city of San Luis Obispo:

This quarry was once served by a railroad spur is possibly on public land, but there is no legal accessthere. Land in that area was dedicated to the State by the Gnesa family about 12 years ago, and includes all land above the 800 foot elevation. That is roughly the brush line on the mountain in that area, so if you are walking in the grassland, you are likely to be trespassing. This would require some research to determine property lines, and whether the old quarry is inside or outside of the Reserve.

Editorial: This research isn't being conducted anytime soon. Probably not worth the effort.
By John Knight
Jan 30, 2004
I had the surveyors at my office do some additional research into the location of the property lines relative to the quarry (see aerial photo). As Kristin mentioned, the property line is at the 800' elevation. Byron Foster owns the large, 104 acre parcel adjacent to the quarry. Using the USGS topo, we've overlaid the property line onto the parcel map & aerial. It appears (best case), that the property line goes right through the quarry. Essentially, your belayer would be on private property while you climb in the BP Reserve. Worst case, the private property includes the entire quarry and a bit of the slope above it. On top of that, there is no good/legal way to access the quarry without either busting through the brush from the summit trail or crossing Mr. Foster's property. In any case, to "foster" good neighbor relations, I recommend that climbers stay away from the quarry. The land owners and local land managers would certainly concur. Besides, there's lots better, and more convenient climbing out there.
By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Jan 30, 2004
That is cool. Thanks for the survey work.
By Adam Jones
Mar 17, 2005
The climbs from Edges Ledges all the way to Sarah's Breakdown (with the exception of Slippery Air roof) are good quality. The climbs on the extreme left and right sides are loose and not very good. This rock is worth fighting for. Any loss is a big loss.

From the West Summit Block it would be very possible to walk down to the upper ledge of Sycamore Tree wall. But I wouldn't want to be there if someone didn't want me there. But if we're not on private land, then I say go for it. Long hike, probably not worth it unless you are going to spend a half day there at least.

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