|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 170'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Brian Milhaupt on Aug 23, 2003|
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|Comments on Bishop Offwidth||Add Comment|
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By Patrick Peddy
Dec 20, 2006
|One of my favorite wide cracks in the Platte. Next time I'm up there all the antique hardware is coming down (just on the offwidth). Deserving of 3 stars.|
From: Denver, CO
Feb 5, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This is one of the best offwidths I have done. The crux is short but sustained, engaging, and fun climbing. The chimney above the offwidth is a surreal experience, eerily reminiscent of Dragon's Lair in Long Canyon, and makes for absolutely one of my favorite single pitches of climbing on the Front Range.
The suggested gear above is incorrect, unless you consider wicked tipped out cams teetering on nubbins to be reasonable pro. I left the ground with the suggested rack and had to tag gear from a less than ideal stance once I got the to the offwidth. I would recommend singles #1-3, an old #4 Camalot or #5 Friend (a #4 c4 sorta works, I would consider taking an extra #5 if you do this though), a #5 c4, and a #6. I placed one blue Big Bro, but more blue Big Bros wouldn't go unused depending on how you feel about unprotected 5.8 chimney. If you do not intend to run this as a single pitch, you could use another couple big pieces if so inclined, but placing more than the above rack in one pitch would probably turn the upper chimneys into a much more significant effort.
With that said, I highly recommend linking this into one single pitch. It will require you to be pretty judicious about extending your placements in the offwidth crux, but it is quite a unique experience if done this way. How reasonable this feels may be dependent on which side in you choose to do the offwidth or one's tolerance for either gear clusterfuckage or runouts while squirming your way up a leaning offwidth.