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The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Birthday Suit 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Susan Simpson and Dan Hare, 1995
Page Views: 2,123
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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  • Description 

    Start between Devin's Dihedral and Silver Glide. Make a steep face move past a bolt, then a difficult step up and right (or a mantle) to a narrow ledge (#1 or #2 Camalot for pro). Climb up and right, joining Silver Glide, past four more bolts to the anchor.

    This climb can also be toproped after leading Au Natural.

    Protection 

    5 bolts plus #1 or #2 Camalot.


    Comments on Birthday Suit Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 13, 2002

    For those who can't make it up Silver Glide (that's me), this is actually quite a good route. While the book shows the route going around the arete to get to the second bolt, it's possible to go straight up the lower face and do a nice and rather balancy mantle off the obvious shelf.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 1, 2002
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Hmmm. I went straight up the right side, not knowing what route was what until after I'd done them. I placed a few tricams in the crack on the arete between the first and second bolts to do this route, and was glad to have them for what I perceived to be the crux.
    By Nick Kuhn
    Sep 26, 2003

    This is fun, tricky, and thoughtful for a few moves, especially trying to mantle onto that first ledge. Yes, it is a bit crammed in, but it does not deserve the "Bomb" rating.

    A #2 Camalot protects between the first and second bolt; probably nice to use a shoulder-length sling to avoid rope drag.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Sep 29, 2003

    Ditto, better than a bomb. Worth a run if you're there.
    By ac
    Jun 22, 2005

    Gear Alert
    Left anchor bolt-nut is loose. Next party should take a wrench and tighten it.

    Cheers,
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Aug 13, 2009
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    If manufactured holds are your cup of tea, this will be right up your alley.
    By Rich Farnham
    Jun 2, 2010

    I found that a few Aliens (green and yellow is what I used) kept this a little safer. There is a tricky move after the first bolt before you can get the 2" cam in. The yellow Alien protected this nicely. The mantle up to the second bolt is pretty tricky. The climbing after this is interesting enough, but the bolt job is pretty poor. They're all good bolts, and they're plenty close, but their placement is pretty random.

    I didn't notice the manufactured holds, but I wasn't looking that close. Wouldn't surprise me.
    By Matt Richardson
    Administrator
    From: Longmont, CO
    Oct 31, 2011
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Better than advertised. I think that Percious may not have gotten his route right given the 10d rating and the manufactured hold comment. A couple of cams for the bottom and the crack after the 1st bolt make this a little less sporty.
    By Ken Duncan
    From: Ft Collins, CO
    Feb 26, 2016

    Another option is to continue straight up the arete rather than cutting rght to Silver Glide. A bit runout though.

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