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Birth Simulator 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Tony Calderone 1992
Page Views: 3,693
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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left to right: 1) Coral Bells Arete 2) Chambered ...


The crack just right of the obvious arete, on the east face. A dirty ugly crack that deserves mention only to bring forth the fact that the ledge near the top contains enough unstable large rocks that your belayer down below needs a helmet or a lucky rabbit's foot. Be careful if you climb it.


1 bolt above the ledge near the top. Otherwise all natural including your anchors. Bring plenty of medium to large gear.

Photos of Birth Simulator Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1)  Coral Bells Arete  2)  Chambered Nautilus  3) ...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Coral Bells Arete 2) Chambered Nautilus 3) ...

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By Stephen Colbert
From: utah
Jul 2, 2007

one of the majors finer efforts! kudos chippy
By Rachelle J. Ross
Jul 7, 2009

Nice climb for an easy lead, looks simpler from the bottom that it really is (but shoot, most climbs do!)with a few places without major positive holes. Still, a very nice lead for those looking for practice clipping and a scenic warm up for those with more experience.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jul 7, 2009

"Practice clipping"?? You must mean the route "Sweet and Low". Are you referring to the climb in the corner (with no fixed gear and no bolts) or the bolted face just to the right of the corner?
By Tryhard Scoville
From: Sandy, UT
May 15, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I climbed the full route today. For beginning trad leaders, it may be worth doing once, but I would strongly discourage going past Sweet and Low's chains - by the time you have made it this far, a crowd of families with small children will be haning out below sans helmets. The rock quality is VERY poor beyond the chains. There is a ledge with tons of loose rock and a single bolt. I climbed beyond this and found a good block up top that I slung for a rappel anchor. If you make the mistake of going this far, make sure you and your belayer have a good system for communication because the river and large ledge make verbal communication nearly impossible.
By PeterSLenz
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 6, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This pitch must have "cleaned up," since Nate's evaluation in 2001, and certainly since the publication of the Ruckman's guidebook. There is very little loose rock if you end at the Sweet and Low chains. The last few moves are on lichened rock, but did not detract from my enjoyment. I think this pitch is well worth doing.

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