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Flying Flatiron
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Birth and Transmogrification TR 
East Face Complete T 
Inside Passage, The T 
Less Talk, More Sauce T 
Satan's Toy T 
Weak Sauce T 

Birth and Transmogrification 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Glover
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Paul Glover on Nov 16, 2015

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  • Description 

    Make a wandering rightward scramble up through bush clogged choss below the shallow dihedral. Chimney (5.0) up right to a ledge, and keep journeying right . Ascend a flake to its end on the right side of the shallow dihedral (5.7). Now this brief and kinda clean climb begins. Undercling up and left, then punch straight up at the end of the undercling. Now do a unpleasant traverse left to the top of the dihedral and go up. Pull onto the lame slab and lower off.

    Location 

    There is an obvious, somewhat impressive headwall along the South Face of the Flying Flatiron at about half height. It is impossible to miss the almost stunning, shallow dihedral in the headwall when making the obnoxious haul to The Inside Passage. B&T ascends a line of weakness along the right margin of the dihedral, which dihedral I should mention is a choss dump.

    Protection 

    From under Satan's Toy, solo 5.nuthin R to a blobby perch. Throw in ginormous cams, and drape a 20m length of something you trust down the rough slab. This is your typical, pain-in-the-sack, Flatiron TR.


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    By Paul Glover
    Nov 16, 2015

    TRed this in 2012 intending to headpoint it (always a douchy objective). Never did. Went back recently, rapped down it, and decided not to bother. It needs a bolt anchor where it hits the slab, so I can stop hating the entire area. The climb itself should be bolted, no debate, though one would still have to hack sideways through a thicket before touching uncrumbling stone. Might bump the route to three stars - kinda doubt it though. For those who reliably ask, it was done without footwear.

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