Bird's Eye and Sporty Area Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Dave Quinn's ripping stem and crimp "Owl Clif...
To the left, past the RGC area, is a section of cliff notable for the many large corners and aretes, named after the 3 pitch 11c Sporty Owl that climbs up the middle of it. This section reminds me of pictures of Patagonia and it's sharp spires. Contrary to it's name, most of the current routes here are well protected with traditional gear and a scattering of bolts. Routes are up to 3 pitches long and wander through wild, featured terrain.
When you come to Butolicious a 12a/b bolted 30 m arete, to it's right, at mid height, is a big corner with hanging blocks in the middle of it. Above is a huge slot with the striking looking "Texas Flake" making up the right side. This is the landmark bounding the right of the sector and the left is the sharp, half height, bolted fin of Talon 12a.
Just past Talon, is a tall, steep arete with many cracks in it, the start of where the Bird's Eye Wall heads up the hill. Unfortunately, a lot of the rock is crumbly here, but with work it should offer up some worthy lines. The only currently completed one is the bolted namesake route Bird's Eye View that looks out over Sawyer Pond. The shorter wall up and to the left has one line, a surprisingly pumpy traditionally protected 5.10 The Incubator and possibilities for more.
From where the approach trail gets you to the cliff, head left. The bolted Butolicious arete with giant slot and The Texas Flake high above will be your landmark at the start of this section.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 10.5 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
Owliola 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a New Hampshire
: WM: Kancamagus (Central)
: ... : Bird's Eye and Sporty Area
Owliola follows the broken orange corner just right of The OCC near the left end of the Sporty Area, finishing up the obvious handcrack in the right facing corner, formed by the big square flake at mid height of the cliff (no second pitch yet).After the initial broken corner, traverse right to clip the second bolt and continue past it around the arete to get to a good jug. Use that to get your self up onto the small slab above and move back left, passing 1 or 2 more bolts, then head up to the fi...[more] Browse More Classics in New Hampshire