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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, Jim Andress, 1958
Page Views: 12,422
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (201)
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Stranded on Birdland


One of the classic "Land" climbs. And yes, that's the same John Rupley that put up so many climbs in Arizona.

This climb is easy to find. Follow the trail past the huge right-facing corner of Roseland, past the 'gym', and up a few steps to the next huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny.

P1: Start at the corner, but work up and right across the horizontals to a fixed pin, and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux; may be tricky to protect) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Two bolts await you higher and further out on the arete. 5.8+, 90'.

Many people rap from here but the second pitch is just as good.

P2. Proceed up into a steep left-facing corner, then past some small roofs, to the top. 5.8+, 115'.

Descend at the Fat City tree or on the trail.


Standard Gunks rack.

Photos of Birdland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working on pitch one.
Working on pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: Birdland P1
Birdland P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing and rapping Birdland.
Climbing and rapping Birdland.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Full view... Three pitons and good starter climb i...
Full view... Three pitons and good starter climb i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun moves the whole way up.
Fun moves the whole way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: here is the route generally.
here is the route generally.
Rock Climbing Photo: Janine on Birdland
Janine on Birdland
Rock Climbing Photo: The fixed pin in the 1st horizontal below the P1 c...
The fixed pin in the 1st horizontal below the P1 c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching the arete.
Reaching the arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first hard move.
The first hard move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Birdland 10/2010
Climber on Birdland 10/2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Right is on Birdland. The climber on th...
BETA PHOTO: Climber on Right is on Birdland. The climber on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stepping up to the stance below the crux.
Stepping up to the stance below the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Hoste on Birdland topping out the first pitch....
Ben Hoste on Birdland topping out the first pitch....
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the crux.
Just below the crux.

Comments on Birdland Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 5, 2015
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006

Don't miss out on the second pitch. Incredible.
By losbill
Mar 15, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

John what do you mean by a classic "Land" climb?

Regarding the two responses below; thanks gentlemen. Now, not that I need anymore climbing goals, the "Land" climbs at the Gunks have become one!
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 18, 2008

I think a lot of people get confused by this description and comment. When I first started climbing at the Gunks and saw this comment in the Williams guide, I thought it meant the route was short, thus close to the "land". If you look through the guidebook, however, many route names end or begin with the word "land". For instance--"Birdland", "Disneyland", "Never Never Land", "Turdland", "Land's End", "Absurdland", "Land of Milk and Honey"...the list goes on and on. A good goal would be to do all the "land" climbs in the Gunks.
By John Peterson
Mar 19, 2008

To quote Chris Jones (Climbing in North America), in 1958, "McCarthy launched out on a series of classics, the "Land" climbs, with his Birdland (5.9) and Roseland (5.9)". Later, MaCarthy and Gran put up Never Never Land. Finally, in 1960 they "put in a finale to the Land climbs, Land's End".

Although it was McCarthy that started the "Land" climbs, others continued the tradition and thus the Gunks contain quite a few "Land" climbs, almost all of which are classics.
By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009

Do the 2nd pitch. Period.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 17, 2009

P1 is always a pleasure, although I always forget the location of the the little white pebble (left foot) for the crux move. P2 is very different from P1, in my opinion the better of the two pitches. Lots of nice moves to a nice roof.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fantastic climbing that doesn't really ever let up. The first pitch crux was a fun puzzle to solve. This would be a solid 5.10 in the south.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Nov 21, 2010

This would be a solid 5.10 in the south.

I completely disagree, IMHO...
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Jan 29, 2011

I also disagree.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pulling the roof directly on P2 is 5.9. Escaping out right is 5.8. Gear is good either way.
By ARMoss
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

WITH a BD 0.4 in the right place and careful attention to the feet at the P1 crux, this climb's great, airy, fun, and interesting. WITHOUT those two things, it could feel 5.9+ and pretty PG13, especially to someone not solid at the grade. I felt like P1 was the better, harder pitch, but P2 is well worth the trouble, especially if you like Gunks roofs. The blueberries on route are amazing, too.
By EricBacus
From: Germantown, NY
Jul 23, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thought Pt.1 was G and about right at 8+.
Pt. 2 felt more PG and around 9ish for the roof. Both pitches are great.
By SouthernTier
Sep 5, 2015

Climbed both pitches of this on 9/1/15. Since there is a lack of beta on the second pitch I thought I would chime in.

The 2nd pitch is definitely worth doing, as everyone says. The opening section is very easy face climbing up to the open-book crux area. This section has 2 pitons and also plenty of smaller placements available. The open-book crux can be protected with a bomber nut on the right-facing side pull at the base of the book. I thought it was a mild crux compared to the 1st pitch. After the crux you are jug-hauling on horizontals on the roof. I placed a bd #1 and .75 here and took the easier path, traversing right on the horizontal. After you get to the top there are either good trees or a good horizontal crack on left for anchors (I used metolius .5, 2, and 1). Enjoy.

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