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Bird Cage 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Dick Williams, Steve Arsenault, & Wilber Cain - 1971
FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson - 1972
Page Views: 10,008
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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Climbing the initial dihedral of Birdcage. Photo C...

Description 

Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland; the corner itself is Bird Cage.

P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (sometimes a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach will get you through it.

Rap from a fixed anchor above, or use the Birdland bolt anchor directly to the right; or finish on P2 of Birdland.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Bird Cage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting horizontal.
Getting horizontal.
Rock Climbing Photo: Full view. There is a fixed nut or two at the crux...
Full view. There is a fixed nut or two at the crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: vintage shoes!
vintage shoes!
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd Mummert underneath the roof.
Todd Mummert underneath the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: The corner on the first pitch makes for fine bridg...
The corner on the first pitch makes for fine bridg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting a foot up.  Ain't over yet.
Getting a foot up. Ain't over yet.
Rock Climbing Photo: just plain fun!
just plain fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro h...
Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro h...

Comments on Bird Cage Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Dulberger
Sep 15, 2008

The 2nd pitch of Birdland up and to the right and is under-appreciated - it's nice 5.8 climbing, good pro, interesting corner/roof moves.
By Moritz B.
Apr 19, 2015

The dihedral is more like 10- instead of "challenging 5.8" but have a shot, a see for yourself. Fun climb.
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Jun 1, 2015

I agree with Moritz B: The corner is sustained and technical. 9+ or 10- for sure.
By SethG
Jun 1, 2015

I say the corner is just plain 5.9, the traverse is 5.10b, and the roof is harder than that: 5.9+.
By losbill
Jun 1, 2015

Okay Seth, I'm confused.

...and the roof is harder than that: 5.9+.

Are you applying North Conway route grading and implying the roof is harder than 5.10b? Or am I misinterpreting your comment and you are grading the roof as a Gunks 5.9+? I assume the latter but always keep an open mind. I only question it since you are usually very precise and correct in your sentence structure. You haven't had a glass or two of wine before posting by chance?

Champagne Bill
By SethG
Jun 1, 2015

losbill, don't you know that 5.9+ is harder than 5.10b?

Sure seems that way to me!

I think the roof is 5.10 minus, to be honest.
By stephen arsenault
Jul 31, 2016

Funny that I never knew we were doing a 1st ascent, since Dick Williams never mentioned it, back in 1971. Don't really remember the climb, since it was a long time ago.
By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 11, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

a worthy variation is to do Birdland and finish up and left on the roof of Bird Cage. The face climbing leading to the roof is much easier than the traverse on standard Bird Cage, but with limited pro

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