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Ants Are Fat T 
Bircheff-Williams T 
Border Country T 
Bottom Feeder T 
Cat Dancing T 
Central Pillar of Frenzy T 
Desperate for Doughnuts T 
Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 
East Buttress T 
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Kor-Beck T 
North Buttress T 
Paradise Lost T 
Pedestal, The T,TR 
Pee Pee Pillar T 
Pee Pee Pillar Left T 
Quicksilver T 
Rainbow bridge S 
Ramer S 
Slip on Slime S 
Space Babble T 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Stand And Deliver T,TR 
Stoner's Highway T 
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Together Forever T 
Walk of Life T 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Phil Bircheff and Steve Williams 1969. FFA Kevin Worrall and George Meyers 1973
Page Views: 6,701
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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An unknown climber finishing up the first pitch.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


This is a five pitch line left of Central Pillar of Frenzy. I have only tried the first pitch, which can be toproped after descending the rappels for Central Pillar. The first pitch is thin climbing up a clean dihedral, leading to a short section of off-width that is easier than it may look. The crux is obvious as the finger crack peters out, and you have to negotiate 20 feet of extremely strenuous stemming on glassy feet. Consider the use of the arete out right if you are tall. There are two pins in the crack, and you can get some small cams, but still a heady lead. The remaining four pitches look interesting, although I have not tried them.


Directly left of Central Pillar, and follows the final rappel pitch for that route.


Small gear (doubles) (offset Aliens, micro cams, lowe-balls) up to 3". Perhaps a #4 Camalot for the wide crack. Pitch one can be toproped from the rappel anchors with a 70 m rope (although you just barely reach the ground with rope stretch so be careful not to lower your partner off the end!)

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Ron Kauk in action

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By 426
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

1st pitch easier if taller, fixed pins when we did it. Don't be scared, fire it. Fabulous! Need to go back for the rest sometime...
By Rob Dillon
Oct 12, 2008

11b: all-time sandbag.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 13, 2008

"11b: all-time sandbag"

More people should write such Concise comments. That fun eh?
By Rob Dillon
Oct 24, 2008

It doesn't have to be 'fun', to be fun, right?

What was truly not that great was watching Mama Bear introducing her cub to the joy of pack-raiding at the base as we sorted helplessly through our tangled rap lines. Probably best to hang your gear a few pieces up on the off chance you've ever kept food in there.
By Dave Vuono
From: Reno, NV
May 10, 2009

Yes, we had a similar experience with a bear but managed to scare it away.
By GregH
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 18, 2010

1st pitch crux is getting slicker due to people descending from Frenzy.

Upper pitches are SICK! but also sandbagged, thin, and a little vegetated. Go up the corner to another set of rap bolts (pitch 2) up the corner for another pitch (more rap bolts out right). Then cut left of onto the face doing a rising traverse to change corner/crack systerms. This pitch has bomber Rap bolts above the "11c lunge left" (was not a lunge) the remainder of the route looked to vegetated to be worth it.

as of 9/18/10 beware of small wasp hive near the end of the of the second pitch (2nd pitch in the Falcon Guide) They were friendly and didn't sting, just surprising.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Oct 3, 2014

This climb would be stellar if it was cleaned out better. The rock face is pristine, but the crack systems have a lot of dirt, grass, and bushes. Pitch 3 in particular was overgrown, but it looks like there's a cleaner variation straight up the corner (instead of switching to the left crack/corner, as shown in Reid guide). Pitch 4 crux could probably be anywhere from 5.10 to 5.12 depending on your height. Place gear high in the corner then climb back down to do the moves. I left a stopper with a carabiner for my second to lower out on. All of the belays are bolted with rap hangers/rings except for pitches 5 and 6. Pitch 6 ends at the rappel tree atop pitch 6 of the Kor-Beck, where you can either continue on that route to the katwalk, or rap back down to the ground. Also this climb is about 800ft long, not 500.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

If someone told me the crux section near the pin was 11+ I wouldn't argue. I'm tall and the arete didn't seem to help much, techy stemming was the key. Bring lots of tiny gear and small brass offset nuts. One #4 and one #5 sews up the OW section, for the rest of the climb bring doubles to #1, single #2.

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