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The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)  T 
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Quiver T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 
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Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 
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Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 
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Tempest , The T 
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Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 
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Wilner's Route TR 

Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,017
Submitted By: Dustin Lagoy on Jun 10, 2011

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>


Start straight up from the Gunklandia second (often first) pitch bolted anchor. Climb through some easy ledges to the short but sweet hand crack and into an easy offwidth section. Head out left on the flake and up the short left facing corner to the top.

Jeff Butterfield rates it as 5.9+ in his Acadia climbing guide but I think it is much easier (as long as the crack fits your hands).


A mid-cliff START: Straight up from the Gunklandia bolted belay, look for the left leaning flake on the face above.


Standard rack, a #3 might be helpful for the flake but is in no way necessary.

Comments on Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) Add Comment
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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011

This route is every bit of 5.9. Steep and stout. The crux is the first ten feet (a C4 is nice in the initial off-widthy bit); it sure was easier back in the 80s, when the tree was still there (hence the name, referring to a birch tree). The hand jams above are wonderful, though. The undercling and finishing crack are much easier than the crux handcrack. Most of Acadia's classics were first done a long time ago, and some of the grades are very "Old School," so be prepared. (The second pitch of nearby Gunklandia, is a prime example of a 5.7 sandbag).
By Christian H
Jul 8, 2016

Does anyone have a picture of the route before the tree disappeared??
By ben smith
May 20, 2017

The new Simmons guide suggests two 3" pieces are helpful, which I assumed meant a #4 or two. #4 is not necessary in my opinion, but two #3s are helpful.

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