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19th Nervous Breakdown T 
Bipolar T 
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Bipolar 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: EFR, JSt,Erica Bigio, '09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 25, 2009

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Erica Bigio on the final crux of this multiple cru...

Description 

Funky start to a short protectable chimney or a solid feeling but R rated layback left of the chimney. Then you are into discontinuous cracks leading to very thin and tenuous face/slab climbing.

Location 

Park in first parking area past Geology Vista on the right side of the road. Drop down and hike up the road next to the retaining wall 100 yards. From the top of the flat rocks find anchors and rap in or climb down around the down road end of the cliff. We had two ropes and rapped in. The climb is the second slot left of 19th Nervous Breakdown. It is undercut and the slot is big enough to chimney if you choose to do it that way.

Protection 

Good protection. Single set of cams from #1 micro cam to blue Camalot single set of stoppers three bolts


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