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Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Drew Fraser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: Rob Upton on Jul 17, 2016

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Description 

It is a classic climb, but rope drag can become an issue. Climb up the right facing corner under the square roof so you are jammed right under it. Traverse out left and swing left out around the corner back onto the face above the block. Traverse 6 to 8ft left on the ledge and climb straight up the crack. Continue up the crack system past two bolts to the anchors at the top.

Location 

Start beneath the right side of the large block in the right-facing corner.

Protection 

Trad with 2 bolts, 2 bolt lower-off


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By Rob Upton
Jul 17, 2016

Rope drag at the start can be avoided with double ropes or by intially using the other end of your rope as second rope. Untie the other end once on the ledge. You will need a full 60 meter rope for this climb.

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