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Bipolar Brain Flush 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ? Unknown
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Aug 23, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Bipolar Brain Flush and "Brain Fart" cra...


Start on the face left of the somewhat ugly, somewhat rotten, wide crack. (Photo)
Climb the face [Var] past 3 bolts* and then ascend the 5-inch crack to the top.

[ * Stepping right to the large crack after Bolt #2 lowers the grade to about 5.8, the crux is the move(s) between bolt 2 and 3 ]

Variation - "Brain Fart Variation" Climb the wide, ugly crack to the clean upper crack. 5.8


Std rack, perhaps some wide cams for the upper crack.

Photos of Bipolar Brain Flush Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Crack - Brain Flush / Fart
BETA PHOTO: Upper Crack - Brain Flush / Fart

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 1, 2016

Nice route, the most natural line about 5.8, depending on how hard you feel the early slab moves are. It was nice having the # 5 Camalot, which I actually used twice. I placed it to protect getting to the further bolt along the crack, then retrieved it once that was clipped and used it again above, though it would be pretty hard to fall out of the crack with your leg jammed in it. It can't be 140' tall as I lowered off with a single rope, a 60m I believe. Almost 3 stars

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