Bipolar Brain Flush
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BETA PHOTO: Bipolar Brain Flush and "Brain Fart" cra...
Start on the face left of the somewhat ugly, somewhat rotten, wide crack. (Photo)
Climb the face [Var] past 3 bolts* and then ascend the 5-inch crack to the top.
[ * Stepping right to the large crack after Bolt #2 lowers the grade to about 5.8, the crux is the move(s) between bolt 2 and 3 ]
Variation - "Brain Fart Variation" Climb the wide, ugly crack to the clean upper crack. 5.8
Std rack, perhaps some wide cams for the upper crack.
BETA PHOTO: Upper Crack - Brain Flush / Fart
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 1, 2016
Nice route, the most natural line about 5.8, depending on how hard you feel the early slab moves are. It was nice having the # 5 Camalot, which I actually used twice. I placed it to protect getting to the further bolt along the crack, then retrieved it once that was clipped and used it again above, though it would be pretty hard to fall out of the crack with your leg jammed in it. It can't be 140' tall as I lowered off with a single rope, a 60m I believe. Almost 3 stars
By Matt Vittorelli
2 days ago
Awesome route, great approach/easy car camping. A must to put on the to do list.