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Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side
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Biological Clock 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Dave Evans, Kate Duke, Darrel Hensel, and Alan Bartlett - May 1986
Page Views: 865
Submitted By: M. Morley on May 12, 2002

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Biological Clock at JT, a fun little sunny route w...


Biological Clock lies on the far right (west) end of DQ on a separate, short wall. Look for the single bolt on the upper face.

A fairly unusual route, as most of the protection is by tying off rock "plates". Start up nice 10' hand crack. This is where the fun begins. Move up and left on incut plates (some a bit hollow sounding). One solid bolt (replaced 2/02) protects the crux (5.9+) exiting moves. Getting to that bolt is a little spicey. Belay in crack and descend by walking NW to chimney/slot that will take you back to your pack.


Not much! A hand-size cam for the initial crack, and a couple of shoulder-length slings to tie off rock "plates". One solid bolt on the upper face protects crux moves. A stopper or two can be slotted between plates below the bolt. Bring a couple of cams for the belay.

Photos of Biological Clock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Biological Clock (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Biological Clock (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Shana Lauer just below the crux of Biological Cloc...
Shana Lauer just below the crux of Biological Cloc...

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By C Miller
From: CA
Sep 6, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun little route to do if in the vicinity.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 8, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

I don't know about 5.9+, there's one little friction move at the top, the rest is 5.4-5.7. I would however note the protection rating, while maybe not R (PG-13?) is worth considering. I suppose you could find something to sling inbetween getting on the face and the bolt, otherwise you run it out on fairly easy ground.

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