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Unsorted Routes:

Binge and Purge 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,252
Submitted By: Tom Rose on Dec 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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all extremities off

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route will restore your respect for the ratings. After thrashing up this offwidth, I felt like I was going to puke. The bottom twenty feet is thin hands, followed by a chimney so narrow that I was only able to squeeze through by clipping my chalk bag and all gear to my side and taking off my helmet. This way is pretty claustrophobic, so unless you weigh less than about 120 pounds I wouldn't recommend it! It's probably better to lieback this wide section. A rest is available after coming out of the chimney, and is followed by another offwidth section that's 5 or 6 inches wide. This section will require at least 3 large pieces: possibly a 4.5 camalot, #5 camalots, and at least one bigger piece like a #6 friend or a big-bro. Enjoy!


Cams for thin hands for the first twenty feet. Several large cams up to #6 Friend or big bros required for top section.

Photos of Binge and Purge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: i had to take my hat off to fit.
i had to take my hat off to fit.
Rock Climbing Photo: chimney ripper
chimney ripper
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Rose twenty feet up "Binge and Purge"...
Tom Rose twenty feet up "Binge and Purge"...

Comments on Binge and Purge Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 31, 2005

The Harding Slot of Indian cr... but certainly not as hard to get into or as sustained
By Papa Sims
Oct 20, 2008

one would have to be very slender to squeeze the bulge/crux- I tried but didn't fit. I worked a left chicken wing, left foot cam with right hand using crimps and slopers to work my way up the first part of the bulge. When I could no longer reach the crack with my left foot, I cut loose and threw a high heel hook with my right foot and manteled over the roof. After that its 6-?inches of staight forward OW to the chains(a #4 or #5 big bro would be needed to protect the last 10 feet)
By Papa Sims
Oct 20, 2008

Much easier than Big Baby.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008

I loved this climb! I'm alsways looking for interesting squeezes, and this one takes the cake. I scratched up my harness buckle pulling myself up through the roof, and found it much better when I re-did the route in a swami belt. It's tight!
By GregH
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 2, 2009

be careful, I way 175 and it was painful getting through the chimney, almost got totally stuck. #6 camalots above the bulge
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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 12, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

If you can fit through the chimney slot this might be 5.10 but if you have to go around I would say 5.11 is more accurate. Bring at least one #6 Camalot.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Apr 30, 2012

Gave up trying to fit through the chimney on this one. No need to lieback the outside, though. You can leg bar the inside leg & chimney/stem with the outside leg, and work up the chickenwing until you're high enough to grab the knobby corner. Press both hands tight on that and do a mantle! Upper OW is fun & straightforward armbars & heel-toes. Some cheater holds near the end make the final overhanging bit pretty reasonable.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

After a fairly crazy night at the cotton woods, I decided this is the only appropriate route for me to climb. A route name like binge and purge was going to royally fix my hangover. After forgetting a #2 camalot and having one of my friends run around to get me a perfect hand jam piece, I placed a #5 in the large part of the crack and put my right shoulder in the crack. WRONG! I had to down climb and switch to my left shoulder. I groveled my giant body through the slot purging me of the horrible feeling in my gut from the night before. Once on the ledge the terrible nauseous feeling started to triple. Well who cares how you feel just start off widthing this giant crack! I placed a six and started groveling. The groveling took forever and the nausea was getting worse. I placed 3 #6 camalots for that section and when I got to the final roof I grabbed a bunch of thank god jugs that freed me from the off width. I climbed to the top of the crack and wiggled my hips in and just waited for the nausea to fully take over. I didn't puke, but it was real close. Have fun!
By sammiller Miller
From: park city
Mar 15, 2013

Ben! We all felt that way that day! But as I recall you also sent fingers in a light socket that same day like a boss! This is a truly unique and an incredible climb!

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