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Billy Shears 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ray Dobkin, Joe Ferguson, Max Strumia 1982
Page Views: 1,063
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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P1: Move up the right side of the arch (dirty) to the right side of the roof and a good stance. Climb the short crack through the overhang (crux), then go right to a belay/rappel tree or go up to the GT ledge.

P3: From the GT ledge, a good 7+/8 move off the ledge leads to sustained pumpy jug-hauling through a devious notch. The last 25-30' is grassy and not well protected, but it's 5.3 at that point - you can traverse left to whatever gear is on Arch (not much).


The easiest way to find this if you are not well acquainted with the cliff is to go up the trail that is across from where the Stairmaster meets the carriage road; there is a Mohonk Preserve sign there. At the cliff, turn left and walk 100 feet or so. The Arch is just around the corner from a prominent arete.


Standard 'Gunks rack

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By Gunkiemike
May 31, 2010

For me, this route is all about the 3rd pitch from the GT Ledge to the anchor bolts atop Arch/Ribs. The grey Dick book seems to now be calling this pitch 3 of Calisthenic. But I dimly recall a different corner up there for that route's final pitch. Whatever.

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