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Billy Shears 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Jan 28, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Not the way I used to do it (skipped Jackal) but i...


Billy Shears is actually a ground to summit link up of three classic Taylor Canyon standards.

P1. The 1st pitch is the beautiful and very hard 5.10 offwidth swim fest known as "Hurtin' fer Certain". Start as for "Tourist Attraction" but instead of traversing left towards the easy dihedral, go straight up the ominous overhanging wide crack. Get good reliable pro in early as you may not find it easy to stop and get gear higher up. P.1 ends at the leisurely "Sun Deck".

P.2 is the route known as "Jackal" This enjoyable 5.7 pitch is the obvious ski track cracks on the left end of the 1st buttress. Start off of the "Sun Deck" in the crack on the left. The angle progressively steepens until an unusual overhang is encountered. Turn the overhang on the right and continue up the double cracks. At the top of the pitch, rather than head for the regular "Jackal" belay, look for a 15 foot traverse to the left. You are heading to the base of the wide crack that leads through the right side of the clean cut roof high up on the left skyline. Establish a belay at the base of what is known as "Inner Space".

P3. Awkward 5.9 wide crack climbing leads to a spectacular and airy 5.10- roof. Continue up to a nice ledge then up a short but sweet little final crack on the right.

Descend by scrambling up to the top of the 1st buttress then down climbing carefully into the gully on the backside. This gully will lead you left and back down to the parking area. This is really a fun route.


Big gear will be appreciated on this route, Particularly on the 1st and 3rd pitches.

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By phil broscovak
Aug 1, 2005

On a historical note... Billy Shears is the name of the mysterious person who is said to have replaced Paul McCartney of the Beatles after Paul supposedly died in a car crash in the seventies.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 1, 2005

[Phil- Paul] supposedly died in a car crash in the late 60s, not in the 70s. hints of [Sir Paul's] death abounded in the [Magical Mystery Tour] album out in early '68. The [Beatles] were history by 70/71.
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Aug 27, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is a hidden key hold inside of the big roof at the top, on the left hand side of the big roof, making it what I considered 5.9 Definitely not as tiring or hard as Hurtin fer Certain below, but more spectacular. We used to call Hurtin fer Certain "The Fish", because of the squirming fish like moves you had to make to go 5 feet in 1/2 hr!

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