Billy Goat Rock Rock Climbing
Billy Goat Rock
Billy Goat Rock is another sandstone rock with a mixture of toprope and sport climbs with bouldering on the lower portion of the rock. All the climbs are pretty close to vertical, but the bouldering gets pretty overhung.
The bolting on this 40 foot rock is pretty inconsistant. Some routes have nothing but 3/8" bolts, but a few rusty 1/4" bolts are still vital for some of the routes. So be aware of what you're getting into.
All topropes can be set up by hiking up and left around the rock, and most routes have 3 hangers up top.
From the main castle rock parking lot, take the trail that leads to the campground. After ~.5 miles of downhill hiking the trail crosses a bridge then forks. The left fork continues to the waterfall and the campgrounds and the right fork leads to Goat rock and Billy Goat rock. Take a right and proceed up a fairly gentle hill for another ~.5 mile until you come around a corner and find a very odvious climbing rock about 10 feet off the trail. A wooden fence beside the trail also points at the rock. Its pretty hard to miss. The right-most bolted line is Cummed On (5.11c). Two more lines are on the same face.
Weather station 4.4 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Billy Goat Rock
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Billy Goat Rock:
Cummed On 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Billy Goat Rock
Cummed On 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a California
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : Billy Goat Rock
The right most route up the main face. It's the only route that still has bolts that haven't been chopped. Shares the same start as Permanent Erection. After about 8-10feet of climbing make a hard bouldery move right to a large black rock that looks out of place on the wall. After that climb just to the right of the Arete then pull move back left past the second bolt. Make a few move hard moves to the third and forth bolts. Don't be fooled about the top part of the route. From the ground it appe...[more] Browse More Classics in California
Mike Arechiga on, Permanent Erection, 5.11a.