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Billy Goat Arete 

YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,487
Submitted By: George Bell on May 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Billy Goat Arête.

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  • Description 

    "Billy Goat Arete" is the arete on the north edge of the east face of Hillbilly Rock. It could also be called the Northeast Arete. I spotted this line today and it is a fun climb, but it is not in any guidebook. There is a crack about 3-4' left of the arete that makes for great holds and also pro. This would be an excellent first lead for a beginner, because unlike most Flatiron routes there is quite a bit of pro available. You can get some good practice placing gear in cracks.

    This climb is about 200' long. Start at the base of the ridge and head up, staying just left of the Arete. About 20' up you will reach the crack, which is generally finger sized. Continue up excellent rock to the top which was draped with slings. The fact that there was chalk in the crack shows this route is somewhat popular.

    Descend by either rapping 60' north off the summit, or downclimb the North Face route.


    Standard rack.

    Photos of Billy Goat Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah stopping to enjoy the view heading up Billy ...
    Sarah stopping to enjoy the view heading up Billy ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the right ridgeline.
    BETA PHOTO: Follow the right ridgeline.
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of Billy Goat Arete.
    1st pitch of Billy Goat Arete.

    Comments on Billy Goat Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By shad O'Neel
    Apr 29, 2003

    When I saw how nice this crack looked from the ground, I had to run up it just for fun. It seems to be the most aesthetic line on the crag. Was much easier than the downclimb.
    By Scott Edlin
    From: boulder, co
    Jun 25, 2006
    rating: 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a

    Worth one star only because it protects far better than any other east face Flatiron climb I've been on. Two pitches with an obvious large belay ledge, mediocre rock, and poor descent options.
    By Dominick Morone
    Aug 28, 2006

    I begin this route about 20 feet up from the base on the north side and used all of a 60m rope to top out. I lowered my partner down the north side and then self-rappelled off a big west pointing horn. It didn't seem too dicey, but I will remember to pack webbing and rap rings to leave behind on every climb from now on.
    By E Johnson
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 13, 2009

    Finger crack may be 20 feet above the top of the boulder at the base, but if you start to the left of the boulder going up the flake undercling, it's more like 30 feet and not easily discernable.

    Fun climbing for a new trad leader. Would like to do the other routes here but:

    The approach absolutely sucked; the rain have caused the grasses and ferns to grow so tall you can't see what you are stepping on. And it is very steep. Miserable approach on a hot day.
    By Rob White
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 27, 2012

    Thought this an excellent downclimb after scrambling up the east face left side, easy hand and finger jams almost the entire way. A worthwhile stop on the way out after ascending Stairway to Heaven.
    By Rick Blair
    From: Denver
    Aug 17, 2013
    rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

    With a 30 meter rope in 3 pitches: 100 feet to first nice belay ledge, 75 feet to second large belay ledge, 75 feet to top.

    On descent, a 30 meter rope gets you to large ledge/platform 10 feet from walking territory. Easy 3rd class to the ground from there. There was a static rope around the huge summit block. This would make a good place for a chain anchor in my opinion.

    Check out my beta photo on the main Hillbilly page for a much more civilized approach. Watch out for poison ivy!

    2 stars, because I think this would be a great first lead.
    By Brian C.
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jun 1, 2014
    rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

    This route was very enjoyable and is totally worth your time if looking for a short climb or solo close to the car.
    By Tim Meehan
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 3, 2016
    rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

    At the rappel, the double wrap of static line around the boulder has seen better days. Added new webbing and a stainless quicklink. Tighten water knot before use. Also, be sure that your rappel rope does not bend over the sharp edge on the east half of the lip below the anchor.

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