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Bill Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
Season: May - Nov
Page Views: 948
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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I continue above this pitch by linking into Little Finger, then climbing through LF's direct finish overhang, yielding an excellent 3 pitch 5.7 PG route.
Bill Route itself is an excellent intro to the friction climbing on Roger's Rock. The pro is abundant compared to many of the routes, yet spaced apart enough to give initiates the heeby-geebies on their first go. The museum-grade 1/4" rivet just below the belay anchors is an amusing(??) reminder of "how it was done" back in the day.
Once you've deciphered the initial moves, spider-crawl up the slab following a drunken line of bolts to a two-bolt belay.
A second pitch has been added, though I'm not sure where it goes. Note that the rock pillar lying on the slab above the anchors is part of Little Finger Direct which is 5.8X.


About 50' right of the obvious crack of Little Finger, just right of a high bump along the base ledge, at a tiny right-facing corner that leans right and fades out 10' up.
Descent is via rappel with double ropes.


Mostly bolts, but the initial hard move is protected by a brass or small wired nut. Linking to Little Finger requires a full trad rack.
Make sure to bring double ropes, as the rappels are very long.

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By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 23, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I think the opening moves, done on very thin wire-nuts for "protection" is the crux, hence I rated it 5.7...even though it's common that "the first 15 ft don't count for the rating."
By Andy Munas
From: Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
Aug 31, 2015

Agreed, definitely bring a #3 BD stopper to protect the first toughest move. Otherwise you would have a ledge fall / tumble to the lake on a fall. The rest of the route is fun but as all "sport" climbs here very run out. I climbed it on doubles and clipped two lower pieces of mank (not mentioned above - maybe worse than the one below the belay) on the right rope. I don't think any of these older bolts would hold a fall anymore. And yes, it is just about 170 feet with 4 bolts and one #3 stopper.
By crackatoa Spiesbach
From: Boulder,Co
Apr 19, 2016

The upper two pitches are rally a blast as well and very well bolted.. I think P2 goes at 5.8 ish.. and p3 is 5.7? You can see them from the belay

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