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24 Hour Crack T 
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Bilge T,TR 
Crustacean TR 
Full Sail T,TR 
Head Arete T,S 
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Bilge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Daniel Kaye on May 30, 2016

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Left climber on Bilge, right climber on SinBad.

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pluggin pieces with a background of crashing waves, what could be better?

The crux is probably in the first 10-15 feet, weather you traverse out left and back or just make the reach straight up for it.

A guidebook once told me this was about 5.7, but I did some 5.6's the following day at the South Wall which were significantly more challenging. pshhttt, grades...

Location 

From above: There's a vegetated gully at the ~7' vertical face between the higher and lower rocky plateaus atop the left wall area. A top rope anchor can be established with some nuts at this point.

From below: Facing the left wall, this climb climbs the obvious gully which starts just to the right of the huge roof.

Facing the ocean from the top, there's a trail to the right that goes around and then loops down the the base. Facing the cliff from below, that same trail to the left of the cliff now leads up and around back to the top.

Protection 

One bolt ~15' up. Standard rack? Pretty sure I placed up to a BD C4 #3 and a DMM #2 wallnut, so anything goes.


Photos of Bilge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Piccolo forgot his shirt climbing Bilge (bol...
BETA PHOTO: Scott Piccolo forgot his shirt climbing Bilge (bol...
Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel Kaye a little above crux. Single bolt (not ...
BETA PHOTO: Daniel Kaye a little above crux. Single bolt (not ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Regina speeding through the crux.
Regina speeding through the crux.

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