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Burgers and Fries
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A Foot in the Gravy S,TR 
Asshole of November, The T,TR 
Bilbo Baggins T 
Burgers and Fries T,TR 
Catch Me T 
Catch Me Quick(er) T 
Catch You T,S 
Councillor's Groove T 
Dusty Eyes T 
Exit Stage Left T 
False Friends T,TR 
French Leave S 
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Genetically Superior Neighbor T,TR 
Gollum T 
High Boltage Line S 
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Last Moves S,TR 
Libya Sucks T 
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Mr. Dressup T,TR 
Nookie Monster T 
Over Forty TR 
Peaches and Cream S 
Pine Cones T,TR 
Pink Panther S 
Predator T,TR 
Prey T 
Short and Sweet T,TR 
Smeagol T 
Split Personality T 
Stu's Slab T 
Swan Song T 
Sweet and Sour T,TR 
Switchback S,TR 
Three Cool Kats T,TR 
Truckstop Jam (AKA Jim's Jam) T 
Who Needs Bolts T,TR 
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Who Needs Pro? T 
Wisecrack T 

Bilbo Baggins 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: kBobby Hanson on May 6, 2007  with updates from Dillbag and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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The many starts of Bilbo Baggins

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts with awesome gear and is clean. It is pretty awesome climbing with a sort of awkward move to get off the ledge about 2/3 of the way up, and its well protected. The Squamish Guide book says this route is 5.8 and I thought it was a little soft even for that rating. Regardless, it was really fun.

Location 

South of the Main Wall of Burgers and Fries. Head up a small side trail through the trees, and go right at the wall. You will come to a left-facing groove/dihedral. This groove is the start for Gollum/Sour Grapes (5.7). Just to the left is the start for Bilbo Baggins. Around the corner to the right is Frodo's First Step.

Protection 

Gear to 2 inches. Two bolts at the top. Walk off left.


Comments on Bilbo Baggins Add Comment
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By Clint Landrock
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

In my opinion this is the best crack climb at Burgers and Fries. There is only one 5.9-ish move at about 2/3rds up, and its well protected, the rest is pretty cruiser 5.7 crack climbing. Contrary to the description, the bottom is clean and alot of fun.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Jul 3, 2014

I don't understand the description of this climb. It is clean, easy, and 5.7 - still fun
By Scott Stevenson
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I agree that the description of this route is really confusing. The route starts with awesome gear and is clean. It is pretty awesome 5.7 climbing with a sort of awkward move to get off the ledge about 2/3 of the way up. I wouldn't call it 5.9 at all. The Squamish Guide book says this route is 5.8 and I thought it was a little soft even for that rating. Regardless, it was a really fun.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 14, 2015

The original description was for a route possibly once known as "Sour Grass" but that is called "Gollum" in Bourdon's guidebook. This is the 5.7 that starts in the deep corner. I have changed the description to include what y'all have said, but kept the grade 5.9 because that's what it gets in the guidebook.

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