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Bigwig (with Salon finish) 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bryan Burdo
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Andrew Davidson on May 31, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

A crag classic that links a few 5.11 cruxes.

Starts on slightly overhanging, short wall ("Toupee"). Up an unprotected ramp to the upper face. Traverse back right. There is a fixed draw right before gaining the Arete where a no hands rest is. Going up, the "Salon" finish gets pumpy, goes straight up following a slightly layback flake to a fixed draw and fixed quick link anchor.

Location 

Right of Doggy Stylin'
First route Left of the Ramp,
The arete is the left side of the "woof"

Protection 

13 bolts
1 extendable draw

2 fixed draws
Fixed Steel Biner anchor


Comments on Bigwig (with Salon finish) Add Comment
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By Matt Quarre
Jul 12, 2017

I believe the Salon finish is taking the leftward line at the top, which is the proper finish for Doggy stylin. The Salon finish goes at 11b, Bigwig straight up goes at 11c (with the fixed draw on the last bolt), and the OG bigwig goes on the rightward bolt line after the arête (11d)
By Andrew Davidson
From: Everett, WA
Jul 13, 2017

The Salon Finish ends on the last section of Doggy Stylin, correct. But looking at the Mazama Rocks Guide book and the 2016 addendum. The end of Doggy Stylin traverses right under a small roof where You connect into from Bigwig. Then goes up the small RFC/flake thing past another small roof to the fix draw you mentioned. Which is directly inline above the arete. Bigwig proper follows the arete right and goes .11d. There is a third variation that connects with "Doggy" and traverses right and ends on the final crack of Bigwig at .11c

Now in the addendum, it states there is an extension directly above Doggy Stylin which is a 5.10 bolted crack, which you might confuse for the proper finish of Doggy Stylin.

This is based on my interpretation of the topos and route overlays in the guidebook.
By Matt Quarre
Aug 7, 2017

Sweet thanks. In talking to Burdo it seems what I explained is the way. It seems he's changed his mind? None the less, stellar link up options!
By Zachary Winters
From: Mazama, Washington
Aug 27, 2017

Anchor has fixed steel biners (sport anchors), rather than quicklinks - no rapping needed

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