|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Matt Kuehl on Dec 1, 2012|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Bigwank||Add Comment|
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Sep 23, 2013
|It's short and very fun. If you're a little nervous with OW this can be easily top roped by building an anchor. I recall a #3 and #4 work well. Otherwise lead it!|
By Mark P Thomas
Jan 31, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra fun if you start from down in the hole. It is just a tad too wide to chimney well there, and is easier to do a mild sidewinder technique for a foot or two until you can start chimneying better.
If you want to lead from the hole and protect yourself from a fall without pre-placing a #6 from the starting block, a Valley Giant #9 is recommended. The rest of the rack is spot on for sewing up a lead. It is very easy to push cams as you go.
My only complaint on this climb is that it is so short, but it is full value from bottom to top, and a VERY good climb.
Top rope can be set up by slinging a chicken head and using several 0.4 BD C4s. Optionally there is an indirect spot for a 0.4 BD C4. This top rope can easily be flipped around to TR Zoroaster.