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Yin and Yang Cliff
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L to R R to L Alpha
Atman T 
Barely Nut-in T 
Bigwank T 
Boxing Day  T 
Budda's Corner T 
Miniwanka T 
Shortwank T 
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 
Yin and Yang T 
Zoroaster T 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,584
Submitted By: Matt Kuehl on Dec 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Shortwank on the left. Bigwank on the right.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Bigwank is a short but fun offwidth crack. Very approachable for the grade.


Right of the tips corner Shortwank


#4, #5, #6 to sew it up

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By Justin.Trayford
Sep 23, 2013

It's short and very fun. If you're a little nervous with OW this can be easily top roped by building an anchor. I recall a #3 and #4 work well. Otherwise lead it!
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Jan 31, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Extra fun if you start from down in the hole. It is just a tad too wide to chimney well there, and is easier to do a mild sidewinder technique for a foot or two until you can start chimneying better.

If you want to lead from the hole and protect yourself from a fall without pre-placing a #6 from the starting block, a Valley Giant #9 is recommended. The rest of the rack is spot on for sewing up a lead. It is very easy to push cams as you go.

My only complaint on this climb is that it is so short, but it is full value from bottom to top, and a VERY good climb.

Top rope can be set up by slinging a chicken head and using several 0.4 BD C4s. Optionally there is an indirect spot for a 0.4 BD C4. This top rope can easily be flipped around to TR Zoroaster.

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