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Lizard's Landing-East Formation
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bighorn Bivy T 
Bone Club, The T 
Canine Crack T 
Ewe Stretch T 
Little Criminals T 
Lizard's Landing T 
Mimo Provoz T 
Sheep Scat S 
Teeter Totter T 

Bighorn Bivy 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: B. Allen, M. Wilson, S Waggoner, A. Bartlett - '91
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Jan 14, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The Eastern Formation of Lizard's Landing, showing...

What it be: 

An interesting varied route on pretty good rock (for the area). One of the better in the area, IMHO.

Climb the broken slab up to a roof. Careful placement and extension as far out right as you can will pay off later when climbing questionable patinas and looking down at the thin wire you placed as your last piece. Traverse right under the roof until you get to a break formed by a finger crack. Follow that up and over, into a slight dihedral. Right about the time the protection opportunities wear out pull right onto the arête and head up patinas to the anchor.

Where it be: 

Head up the rocky gulley on the south side of the formation. Start at the broken slab that leads to a very obvious roof.

How it be: 

Standard rack to 3 inches. Medium gear for the anchor, and/or a long sling for a boulder. You can rap from the anchors to your left.


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By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 6, 2015

topside anchor gear placements or slingable blocks about 10 ft back from the edge. rap via the bolted rap anchor atop Sheep Scat to climber's left, which is about 85 ft down to gully plus easy downscramble