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Big, Ugly Chimney T 

Big, Ugly Chimney 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]
FA: Jason Haas?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Jun 16, 2008

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Description 

I wouldn't normally claim an FA to such an obvious route, especially one this easy, but based on the amount of unavoidable loose blocks I had to send down in order to climb it, I suspect it hasn't been done before...for good reason too. If I'm wrong and you have climbed it, please correct me! Find a dirty chimney on the west face, about 50 feet right of the Banzai Pipeline chimney and about 70 feet left of Beach Blanket Bingo.

Head into the inner depths of the chimney, working over numerous chockstones (some not so solid) and past loose flakes to where the chimney pinches down to slightly bigger than fists. There's not really much reliable gear up to here, but it's pretty mellow and the fist/offwidth crux is well protected. Once above the slot, traverse up and left to the anchor above the two unknown sport routes. The traverse is about 60 feet of unprotected slab climbing up to 5.8 on somewhat exfoliating rock. Don't head straight up the headwall as the rock is WAY worse and still unprotected.

Rap 145 feet to the ground from the bolted anchor or continue up the unprotected but only 5.6 slab for another 20 meters to the top of the dome.

Protection 

The chimney doesn't protect nearly as well as it looks from the ground, but an SR to #4 Camalot will work fine.


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