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Big Top 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lynn Hill, Russ Raffa
Season: gets sun, stays dry in rain
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: camhead on May 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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This is a very aesthetic-looking splitter crack, which starts about forty feet up and above a roof. To start, you can either scramble up easy terrain to the left, or do a direct start through some steep horizontals that adds some 5.11 R climbing. Easy climbing up to a juggy roof with some suspect rock, clip a couple fixed pieces, and get an almost-no hands rest at the base of the splitter.

I don't want to give too much beta away on the splitter, except to say that there is very little true jamming/crack climbing on this route.

The first ascent continued past where the bolt anchor is at the base of the upper roof and went to the top. This last 25 feet through the juggy roof is amazing. We've all been cheated out of the route's best climbing by lowering from the first anchor. Mikey added a top anchor so now it's easy to continue to the top, lower back to the first anchor, untie, pull the rope, and lower again. It'd be a nightmare to try to clean it from the top. It's definitely worth the extra effort.


This is the farthest right prominent line at the Mango Tango/Greatest Show area. Very nice looking splitter going up white rock.


medium to big stoppers, selection of mid-sized cams, one fixed stopper just above the roof, and a bolt right above that. You'll probably want a .5 camalot/orange Metolius sized piece to protect the crux.

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