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Big Sleep

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Afternoon Nap T 
Moonlight Madness S 
Young Guns T 

Big Sleep Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 7,900'
Location: 37.34058, -119.42248 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,461
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris D on Jun 30, 2014
This Afternoon

59° | 38°

47° | 34°

50° | 36°

53° | 38°

58° | 44°

60° | 45°
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This massive dome is a dream of easy slab climbing on incredibly grippy high-quality granite. The summit is a surprisingly prominent pinnacle for a dome like this, and offers expansive views of Southern Yosemite, the Minarets, the Eastern Sierras, north along Shuteye Ridge to the Shuteye Peak fire lookout, and south toward Crocodile, Voodoo, and the Eagle's Nest.

Getting There 

See notes in comments below for what sounds like a better approach than I used.

The approach and deproach are great adventure from start to finish. From North Fork, follow Mammoth Pool Road (also known as Minarets Road and Rd. 225, most often signed as "Rd. 225") about 22 miles. Drive about 1 mile past well-signed Rock Creek Campground, and turn left on Browns Meadow Road (Mostly signed as "7S02"). Drive about 8 miles, being careful to stay on 7S02, which sometimes means just staying on the most well-traveled road, since some roads are poorly signed or not signed at all. After about 8 miles, turn right on 7S02K (signed with a small but legible signpost). Drive about a mile (or walk it if you have thin tires) to a really nice campsite in the tall trees. There is another approach (an earlier right turn off of 7S02) in the guidebook, which I know nothing about.

A giant boulder called the "Petrified Elephant" will be visible to the east. You can't miss it. Walk toward this boulder's right side. Grahm Doe's new guidebook shows you walking straight past this to the big slab, but you don't. Turn right at the Petrified Elephant and look closely for the "trail" that leads to the big open slab. You can't see the slab yet. At the slab, follow cairns to the other side of the slab until you are below the center of the southwest face of Big Sleep. Here, a trail follows a gully up to the toe of the slab, which is about 10 feet left of the start of Afternoon Nap. All but a couple of climbs start to the left of where you meet the formation.

I've centered the map on the spot where you'll meet the rock at the end of the trail.

Climbing Season

For the Shuteye Ridge area.

Weather station 8.5 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Big Sleep

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Big Sleep:
Afternoon Nap   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 900'   
Moonlight Madness   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 5 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Big Sleep

Featured Route For Big Sleep
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crux. P4, 10 feet off the belay. Well protecte...

Moonlight Madness 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  California : Southern Sierra : ... : Big Sleep
Found to the right of afternoon nap. Look for a small pine tree a couple of hundred feet up. Start is on some flakes before getting into some well protected bolted slab.Crux pitch is on p.4 a few well protected slab moves followed by an easy roof. Good fun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Big Sleep Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Buy this book.
Buy this book.
Rock Climbing Photo: Even the clouds look like eagles out here.
Even the clouds look like eagles out here.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pano from the top
Pano from the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Mountain Laurel on the approach to Big Sleep in la...
Mountain Laurel on the approach to Big Sleep in la...
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Sleep Dome as seen on the drive in on Browns M...
BETA PHOTO: Big Sleep Dome as seen on the drive in on Browns M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo To Big Sleep.
Topo To Big Sleep.

Comments on Big Sleep Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jun 30, 2014
Descending Big Sleep involves either rapping Afternoon Nap, or walking off to either the right or left after continuing to the summit of the dome. If you choose to rap, be mindful of the fact that you'll be rapping a popular route that includes a hanging belay at the start of the last pitch. Be courteous to parties ascending this route.

Walking off takes you to other domes and walls on your way back to where you parked. Walk off to the right and you can access Voodoo, the Crocodile, and I imagine other formations. I haven't gone this way. Walking to the left is an easy way to get to Midway Dome, 12 O'Clock Rock, Little Sleep, and whatever you have the energy to get to nearby.

I have no descent beta for the walkoff to the right. For the walkoff to the left, head toward Midway Dome, then begin to drop down the gully between Big Sleep and Little Sleep. For a while, you'll stay near Big Sleep, then you'll trend skier's right toward Little Sleep, always following the path of least resistance through the brush and boulders. About 200 feet above Little Sleep, as you start to get into terrain that looks really rough, scan the bottom of the gully, which is now filled with giant boulders. If you are attentive, you'll see a cairn or two, which will lead you to a trail that has been gardened to a width of about two feet and cairned by some wonderful soul. This trail leads to the slabs, where you can get back to the campsite at the end of 7S02.
By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Clovis, Ca
May 11, 2015
The walkoff right is tricky, try and stay high and gain the ridge before heading down towards the obvious gully and the left side of Voodoo. Once in the gully the trail disappears and it gets ugly. We did it, but we got beat up. I would not recommend this way as a way down to voodoo.
By Normajean5
Sep 2, 2015
Do NOT take road 7S02K, but take road 7S02M to get to big sleep.

Followed the directions on this site to get there, and ended up bushwhacking for a few hrs with no luck. When I turned around to head home, there was Big Sleep looking me in the face. Turned on to 7S02M and it headed right over to it.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 4, 2015
This photo and a little $$ might have saved you a lot of Bushwhacking! It is a beautiful guidebook.
By Bailey Smith
Sep 26, 2016
I followed the advice to take 7S02M (not K) and was very pleased. This road ends in about quarter mile and turns into a perfectly maintained and impeccably cairned pathway directly to the base of Big Sleep. The decent route left is a little less obvious and requires some bushwacking - but is as described and returns you to that perfect trail.

I cannot BELIEVE no one was here on a weekend. Incredible area.

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