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Big Rock Falling 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 11, 2014

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Rock & Ice

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This route was published in a Rock & Ice magazine long ago, which was the original inspiration for Matt Robertson to come to Taiwan...

Start the same as for Dragon with Matches, clipping way left. At some non-intuitive moment, step over to the left onto the blank face. Balance your way up a featureless slab with blunt aretes on your left and right to a good hold. Continue into an awesome but short right-leaning crack up to a thin horizontal. Make a few powerful moves left to get to the arete, then slap and edge your way to the last desperate throw.


Just left of an obvious dihedral, locate an overhanging black/white arete


316 steel (2007)

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By Danger
From: Taipei City
Feb 11, 2017

The iconic Backdoor sport climb.

This route is either LD's easiest 5.12a, or one of its hardest. It all depends on how you climb it.

The most stringent way to do it by local standards is the following:

1. Traverse left on crimps at the first decent horizontal crack, not the higher one which has jugs.

2. After the traverse, no resting by shifting weight to the left face

3. Hands can grab around the left side, but feet should stay on the main face.

Just doing 1 and 2 feels 5.12 to me, but according to the locals, you need to do all 3 for 5.12 status.
By BrianWS
Feb 11, 2017

climbed this with Huang Bai Le in 2009 or 2010. Really cool line, no need to constrain it as an eliminate.

Didn't feel far off from other 12- lines in backdoor when climbing the natural line, so not sure why there are so many "conditions" needed to justify the grade. In fact, some others (coach demonstrates) felt easier.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Feb 11, 2017

There is a lot of gym-climbing mentality when it comes to "the right way" to climb routes around here, which might explain some of the fluctuation in grading, but not all of it. The intuitive line definitely felt at least as hard as Coach Demonstrates (easier than graded) but also requires you to make some long reaches to clip near the top. Most 11+/12- routes feel soft for the grade - Very Inconvenient, Black-Face Man, First Corner, The Desert - with the exception of this one and Nowhere Man.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Feb 11, 2017

im just reporting the "rules". I didn't make them.

I would say that 1 is in my opinion completely mandatory if you want to climb a hardish line. There are two distinct cracks to traverse at and the higher one not only traverses on jugs instead of crimps, but misses a cruxy move.

At 2 and 3 you start getting more and more contrived. but if you are looking to pump yourself out at LD contrivances are sometimes necessary - many routes even in the 12 range have opportunities for good rests otherwise.

Of course you can climb it however you want. The rules are there if you want to challenge yourself.
By BrianWS
Feb 11, 2017

No criticism on your part - just commenting on a silly aspect of the local scene. Personally, I think most of the eliminate rules came about when folks who did the route saw them easily repeated by "inferior" climbers -- basically a way of defending inflated grades and egos.

Same thing happened on local boards when honnold onsighted a supposed 5.14 project and proposed 5.12c as the actual grade -- the local hardmen who had been projecting the route claimed that he sent it only because he used a finger lock that was "off".

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