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Big Rock Cave Rock Climbing

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Routes in Big Rock Cave

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Sasha T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

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Elevation:	1,774 ft
GPS:	43.92772, -71.32474 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,229 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Lincoln on Nov 9, 2009
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Shady Behind big rock cave. View of Mt. Mexico and Chocorua. Secluded area.

2023 Update R. Hall NH Admin. - First, this area is in Albany (although all approaches start from points within "the Lakes Region") and it is in a Wilderness area ( you cross into Wilderness ) I wrote up these directions and descriptions putting the area into Albany Area only to "find" it was put into MtnPrjct 14 years ago, So what the heck, figured I'd just update this posting.

An amazing place! Very shady as it is on the north slope of Mt Mexico. At least 4 high-quality lines.

Madison Boulder may be the largest erratic in NH, but the combination of the three boulders that make up Big Rock Cave is probably 50% larger. The largest boulder, I'll call it the "Overhanging Boulder" is about 35-40 ft high and has a two bolt anchor. (Which seemed to be fairly difficult to get to if one wanted to top rope off it, although I'm sure some sort of rap from the top to the anchors 3-4 ft below could be arraigned off trees somewhere.)

The "Vertical Face" Boulder has a scramble to the top of the non-vertical side with trees growing on its top. It has an amazing dead-vertical face about 25-30 ft high with two obvious cracks. Another face of this boulder, the 20 +/- ft-high face next to the trail, sports a 3rd crack.

The third boulder looks like a flatiron and leans against the "Overhanging Boulder".

A fourth boulder is uphill from the three semi-connected boulders and is significantly lower but might have some bouder problem potential.

Getting There

This rail runs from the cabin train .3 mi from NH 113a over the flat ridge of Mt. Mexico to the Whitin Brook and Old Paugus Trails. Start off NH 113 A diverge right of cabin trail, Big Rock Cave Trail ascends moderately on a recently used logging road that fades away to a trail reaching the very flat summit of Mt. Mexico at 1.1 mi. Descend moderately passing big rock cave. 1.6mi

2023 Update R. Hall NH Admin. - From Tamworth, NH take Rt 113A north. Two approaches are possible, I think the first is slightly easier but haven't done it.

Approach 1 - Take a right off of 113A onto Fowler Mill Road. After about 1 mile take a left onto Paugus Road to trailhead parking. Take the Old Paugus Road Trail 1 1/2 miles to a LEFT onto the Big Rock Cave Trail, go up this about 0.1 mile to the Boulders. (This is the approach described above)

Approach 2 - Stay on 113A about 2 to 2 1/4 miles beyond Fowler's Mill Rd. Park on the left. This parking is about 0.3 mile beyond the Bickford Trail parking and is 25-50 ft before 113A crosses a small stream. Take the Big Rick Cave Trail 1.9 miles to Big Rock Cave. You will go up and then lose altitude going down to the Cave.