REI Community
The Northeastern Crags
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beanstalk Crack, The T 
Big Red Shoes T 
Bigfoot was Here T 
Br'er Rabbit T 
Chess With Justin T 
Encour du Bottom feeder T 
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 
Happy Camper T 
Jolly Green Giant, The T 
Mountain Minor T 
Pick a Card T 
Shapeshifter T 
Sojourn of Arjuna T 
Squeeze Box T 
Steady Yeti T 
Thin Slice T 
Wiessner Corner T 
Yeti Beats T 

Big Red Shoes 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague, Jason Milford 9/27/2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 765
Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Big Red Shoes and Farewell Ronald McDonald - The g...

Description 

Start as for Farewell Ronald McDonald about 30-40 feet right of the chimney /corner of Jolly Green Giant. After the second bolt continue up the finger crack a little and place a good nut with a long sling, step down, then angle left on good face holds to get to the base of a left facing corner with a bolt just below it. A short draw here will keep your rope from rubbing over the sharp arete. Continue up the corner crack with good gear, saving one or two smallest cams for the final bulge below an alcove with a bolted anchor.

Location 

About 35' to the right of the sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here. Look for a couple bolts leading up to a thin vertical crack running through a bulge, with a nice left facing corner to the left starting half way up, with another bolt just below it. The shared start with Farewell RMcD is often wet. It is worth pulling through to the first bolt if needed, as the rest of the route dries quickly.

Protection 

3 bolts, rack to 3", some runners. Save a couple thinnest cams for the top. I think I used the old style .1 Camalot (red?) for my last piece. A stick clip or spot is recommended if the start is damp.

The bolts above the first belay is a partially bolted and cleaned (some loose rock to trundle) project link pitch to gain access to rock above.


Comments on Big Red Shoes Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Albert
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A stick clip is almost mandatory, as you would not want to blow the first few moves, which were wet when we did this climb. The slab below it is way too hard to do a direct, so you have to come in from the side. At the top, make sure to stay right, as the bolt to the left is on the other climb (12). The top out for that isn't too hard, but it is awkward, and I clipped those anchors from a crappy mantle move. After you get into the crack/ corner, the climb is fun, and takes great gear. Minus 1 star due to the traverse. Follow Mark's suggestion with long/ short runners, as it is spot on - you want to keep your rope off the sharp arete.
By Max Dismukes
From: North Quincy, MA
May 31, 2016

The start was dry this past weekend, and I didn't feel a stick clip was necessary. You can get a bomber .5 C4 before doing the harder moves and clipping the first bolt.

This route and Farewell Ronald McDonald were both quite fun

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About