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Big Momma T,TR 
Canaries May Fly T,TR 
Closest Boulder 
Crack Stuffer T,TR 
Empire Crack T 
Gold Rush S,TR 
Hard Movement S,TR 
High Ore TR 
House of Cards T,TR 
Irradiance T,TR 
It Goes to Eleven TR 
Jawline for Days 
Mandibular Disjunction TR 
Neversweat S 
Practice wall TR 
Rolling stones T,TR 
Shaft, The T,TR 
Simple Math S,TR 
Sorbet S,TR 
Tap'er Light TR 
Walk the Line S 
Unsorted Routes:

Big Momma 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Aaron Sybrant, Brian and Abby Thompson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Brian Thompson on Sep 3, 2015

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Chris Mothersole taking a the alternate approach u...

Description 

Big Momma - 5.9 (trad) 70ft, Bolted anchors on top
This route follows broken rock for 15-20 feet before entering a splitter hand crack with face hold options. for ~15ft. After this first taste of the hand crack you enter the splitter dihedral section for the next 20ft (crux). The crack takes all gear sizes, but gear in the 2-3" range is optimal for the crux sections.

Location 

The route is located on the far right side of the face, but still in the dished area of the wall. 'Peach' ascends the arête to the right of this route.
The prominent dihedral up top is hard to miss.

Protection 

Standard rack. 2-3"gear most useful. Plenty of placements for smaller cams and nuts as well if you want to sew it up. Easy gear placements.


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