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Big Medicine  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Scott and John Tuttle (1991)
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: J. Albers on Jun 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Kate savoring the sinker jugs atop Big Medicine.

Description 

Fun route that is worth doing. Slab crux low to fun and steeper pocket pulling up high.

Location 

Find the grey slab of rock on the wall to the left of Wotai. Big Medicine is the rightmost of the routes in this wall (Pale Face Magic is around the corner to the left on the same formation).

Protection 

Bolts to a a two bolt anchor.


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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 8, 2013

This was a common lead for me when I was learning to climb and I never thought much about the bolting job (this probably has more to do with being young and stupid, rather than competent and aware). However, I did this route again recently and it occurred to me that new leaders should be aware that they need to be very solid at the second clip, because if you fell at the clip with any amount of rope out, then you would surely deck. Perhaps this should be left as a testament to the time period it was put up, but then again, newer leaders might appreciate an upgrade. I would "fix" it myself, but I don't feel I have the right. Perhaps Blanco or Lightner will consider it when its time to rebolt.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Feb 1, 2017

Hey guy, Steve and I put up that route and if you don't like it stay off.

When you gain some experience at Wild Iris you will realize that over bolted and over cleaned routes are becoming greasy and slick. This route is made so that competent leaders can do it, not your grandmother. Consequently, its life as a good slab climb will be many years longer than if it was bolted to your inexperienced taste.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 1, 2017

King Tut wrote: Hey guy, Steve and I put up that route and if you don't like it stay off.

When you gain some experience at Wild Iris you will realize that over bolted and over cleaned routes are becoming greasy and slick. This route is made so that competent leaders can do it, not your grandmother. Consequently, its life as a good slab climb will be many years longer than if it was bolted to your inexperienced taste.

Good lord John (yes, I know who you are), did someone pee in your Wheaties this morning? First off, I DO like your route and I first lead it when I was new to climbing nearly two decades ago. So yeah, its safe for a competent leader. If you reread my post, you will notice that I clearly state that I don't have any right to alter your route. I was simply trying to warn inexperienced leaders about the decking possibility, so there is no need to go all nuclear on my comment.

And my comment about Sam Lightner adding a bolt when (likely not if) your route gets rebolted is in reference to the fact that bolts were added to other "run out" routes at the Iris when Sam upgraded the hardware to glue-ins (see comments for this route mountainproject.com/v/mutt-rid... ). Did Sam add a bolt without consent of the FA? No he did not. Why? Because Sam is an upstanding guy with respect for other's creations. That said, I happen to know the FA and I personally talked with Tom about his route and the bolting. Turns out that Tom was happy to have Sam add a bolt and I relayed this info to Sam and the route is now "safer". Your route certainly does not have to have the same thing done to it if you don't want, which is totally fine.

Anyway, thanks for thinking that I'm a "grandma" that doesn't know how to slab climb. Little did you know that I love hard slab even if its runout AND I have been climbing at the Iris for almost two decades, so I guess most of your comments are ill-advised, huh? But you know, its certainly your right to go ahead and ignorantly and rudely talk trash to someone you don't know. Bravo.

p.s. I added your name to the FA.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Apr 9, 2017

In another 20 years you will grasp the wisdom of not over bolting every route to make them more accessible. There is a finite number of times something can be climbed before it is garbage, esp on Dolomite. Entire climbing areas in Europe on limestone are being abandoned because they are becoming too slick from high traffic.

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