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Avant Garde T,TR 
Bad Manners T 
Big Man on Campus T,TR 
Block Party TR 
Boys Visit Charm School S,TR 
Chalkboard S,TR 
Dancing Hearts T 
Deep Sleep T 
Doorknob People T 
Graduation Day T,TR 
Heart Throb T 
L.B.S. T,TR 
Labyrinth T,TR 
Minotaur T,TR 
Prom Night T 
Rage T 
Schools Out T 
Splash T,TR 
Theseus T,TR 
Virgin Slayer T 

Big Man on Campus 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown, 70's
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: ferrells on Jun 13, 2010

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A flaring slot with crappy finger locks for the first twenty feet make this feel like it would fit in better in Yosemite than Smith. I ended up knee scumming/chimneying to get through. Really fun if you like that sort of thing. The rest of the route is a walk.
Start behind a detached block, about twenty feet right of the Minotaur anchor.

Location 

Twenty feet right of the Minotaur anchor, start behind a detached block, in a flaring body-sized corner.

Protection 

Thin gear. Or just TR.


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 17, 2010

In early May 2003, my good friend was just beginning to lead... he had about 5-10 leads under his belt and tied on to attempt Big Man on Campus. He got through the initial start just fine, and was nearing the top-out, out of view of me belaying. Next thing I know, I see him falling out of the sky to my left and the new rope starts slow him down. The rope catches him, but not before he hits a small ledge, breaking his tib/fib, and dislocating his ankle at 90 degrees in the process. He later told me he was getting pumped at the top and decided to dynamically lunge for the rim of the basalt, and found it to be slopey. He took a 35ft ride and was held by a 00 powercam!!! Good thing it was a Metolius cam in solid basalt, because that cam held and likely saved his life. An Epic high angle rescue from the north side of the river, surgery, and recovery ensued. By mid August, we were living and climbing in Toulomne together! It was definatley a beginner's judgement error, but the posting of this route gave me the desire to tell the abbreviated story. We still climb together to this day.
By ferrells
Jun 30, 2010

Thanks for the comment - it's one of the best comments I've read on this site, and amplifies the value of this page tremendously.

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