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Big Man On Campus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, 1997
Page Views: 1,052
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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  • Description 

    BMOC begins around the corner from STBU with a bit of scramble downhill. This route has several thin cruxes from 5.10 to 5.11 in the first 60 feet. BOMC gains the same overlap as STBU, 60 feet off the ground. Haul up the overlap to face a difficult finger traverse that winds left and then back right to come back to the plumb-line from the anchors. The rock is very good. The moves are difficult but well protected, and the line has a lot of continuity. If it did not face South/East BMOC would undoubtedly see a lot more traffic than it does. I thought that The Great Defoliator did a fine job with this one.


    QDs only. This 100 foot route needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. BMOC needs a 60m rope for descent, or bring two.

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    By Chris. T.
    Oct 18, 2011

    This route provides a nice escape from the crowds on a busy day at Highlander crag. The first 60 feet is O.K., mellow climbing, to gain the ledge/overlap. Then a reachy clip leads to the cruxy final 40 feet of great climbing to the anchor.

    A bit of loose rock still exists, but it can be easily avoided.
    By Mark Wiranowski
    May 24, 2012

    Somewhat dirty - looks like it gets water down the face at the bottom. The crux is very bouldery and a little hard for the grade. I started climbing STBU by accident, thinking it was this climb. Really, since the crux is the bouldery overlap (with a ledge rest below it), a nicer overall climb, without sacrificing the grade, might be the first half of STBU, followed by the crux on BMOC.
    By nate post
    From: Silverthorne
    Dec 19, 2015

    This climb kicked my butt. I didn't warm up before trying it and got a little flash pumped at the crux. Maybe I missed something, but it felt a lot harder than 12a. It's basically an easy climb to a V5 boulder problem. I didn't care for it, but maybe I will give it another go some day. It was a little dirty but solid rock.

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