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Big Lebowsky 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson in Spring 2004 (12d A0). F.F.A.: Colby Rickard on August 10, 2013.
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Aug 20, 2013

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This climb ascends a two-tiered overhang via small holds. Climb 10 feet up a ramp corner & hand traverse left on a shelf, past the 1st bolt. Gain a good ledge & the 2nd bolt. Traverse right a couple moves under an overhang to a jug & clip 3rd bolt. Powerful moves on small edges lead to bigger edges over the lip. Traverse left, past 4th bolt, to a finger lock in a horizontal seam. The second crux steps over the first roof & reaches holds above the second roof. Move back right to last bolt. Tiny edges lead over the roof up the slab to the anchor.

I bolted this route in Spring 2004. Over the years, I have worked on this route, done all the moves, but never come close to redpointing it. I belayed Colby Rickard who redpointed this powerful route on his 6th attempt (2nd try on day 3).


Start from the ground below the large ledge where "Hamster Kung Fu" starts.


6 bolts / 2 rings.

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By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This route is really good for a short, bouldery route. It has just two hard moves, and I found a secret heel hook that made them very doable. It may be a bit soft for the grade given, fun route though!
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 16, 2015

Just two hard moves! I wish, but I do think the first crux has two moves that are more powerful than the rest of the route. The second crux seems pretty hard, too. Must be nice to be young & strong. My advice is you should stop wasting your time climbing 5.13s. There is a world of 5.14 & 5.15 climbs that you might not find so soft for the grade. I believe it's for you. Leave the 5.13b climbs for us old guys. This one feels hard from the 3rd bolt to the anchor. Good job sending!
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 17, 2015

No offense, Mark, but could it be that you're getting a bit soft with your grading? Tigers Woody, Buster Brown, Double Dominatrix, and Deep Water Horizon are all great routes, but much easier than advertised....
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Apr 17, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Either way, it's a cool route! I really liked the movement climbing over the first bulge. It's a great find, and I only wish it were longer.
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 2, 2015

Monty, I deleted my last two comments. I suggest you do the same. Why? I feel we have digressed, & comments on this page should be about this route. Kevin has sent the route & thus earned the right to call it soft for the grade or downrate it if he chooses. I think you should post your YDS rating opinion after you have redpointed this route, rather than dish out broad insulting statements based on 4 of my many routes. I haven't redpointed this route either, so perhaps my opinion will change once I do. I did belay Colby on the FFA, & he didn't disagree with my suggested rating. It seems as hard as the handful of .13bs I have done & harder than any of numerous .13a routes. As a general rule, I don't rate or disagree with a climb's rating until I have sent it.
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 11, 2015

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