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Big Jake 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Unknown (Hadley?)
Season: Any
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Colby Wayment on Dec 13, 2010

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Eric Zschieshe and Big Jake

Description 

The obvious line up this section of the Nature Center Wall, Big Jake climbs the beautiful, overhanging, leftward-angling offset. This climb is not very long - the business being only about 30 feet - but it is consistently powerful and dynamic with one obvious crux. This thing isn't over until it's over, though! The climbing is as pumpy and sporty as anything I've been on, of similar difficulty, in the Ogden area.

Some of the bolts are fairly reachy so you may want to make sure this is pre-hung. I doubled up draws on the third bolt. Also the anchor situation is screwy, given that there isn't really an anchor yet. Basically just clip and lower off the last bolt before the long, low angle slab that leads up to a bolt right below the top. Don't get duped into going up there and hoping there are anchors (there aren't).

Location 

About half way between the center of the Nature Wall and the darker color right-margin of the nature center (known as the Brain Area). It is a very shallow (6") left-facing, left arching dihedral (offset) on over hanging rock. "Puking Pumpkins" is the bolted route 10 feet to the left.

Protection 

5 bolts to clip on the way. then the 6th bolt is the anchor bolt. You may want to bring a bail biner or quicklink to leave. (Or better yet, add another bolt and do it proper!)


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By eric zschiesche
Dec 14, 2010

The climbing on this piece of rock is oversized. Great fun,... the song of the stone is a wonderful thing.

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