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Big Iron on His Hip 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
Page Views: 1,318
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 31, 2006

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Some areas require a guide.


Start facing right with your hands in the left side of the hueco and get your right foot on a sharp spike. Reach right to a crimp right of the hueco then get your left foot up into the hueco, if you feel like a pretzl you are doing it right and you should impress your SO if they are present. Flip your left hand into a good pinch on th right side of the hueco, flag your right foot and make a long reach to a line of holds that get better the further they are away from the hueco. If youcan't reach the goodness, don't dispare because you will be sinking a heal toe in the hueco to match the line of holds and work your hands across till your left is in the far right good hold in the line. Now cut the feet and check the swing. Make a long reach again out right to a good flake and lock in another better heal toe cam in the line of holds, this one is almost scary it is so good, it feels as though if you peel your foot may stay. Reach up left to an edge just below the lip of the overhang and stand hard on your right foot to release the heal toe. Go right for another edge then over the lip slightly untill you can step off onto the boulder to the right. Be my guest and top out but the rock is terrible.

As you enter the cave before you get to the true roof stuff, there is a head size hueco at or just above head height, the problem starts here.


Pads and spotter.

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