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Big in Japan 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Drew Bedford & Dana Hauser, 1987
Page Views: 8,159
Submitted By: triznuty on Jun 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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big in japan 12b


Brief, but good grief!
Great little route that gets too business from the start. If it were a little longer it would be a classic. Just go for it!


4 bolts + 2 rap hangers

Photos of Big in Japan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Spencer Bishop going for the red point
Spencer Bishop going for the red point
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxin'!
Rock Climbing Photo: Big In Japan
Big In Japan
Rock Climbing Photo: Working passed the first bolt.
Working passed the first bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Big in Japan
Big in Japan

Comments on Big in Japan Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2017
By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008

Good grief is right! Fun, but pretty damn scary!
By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Oct 2, 2008

Powerful with a sequential upper section. Short enough that it definitely requires an attentive belayer and good communication - years ago I landed on my belayer's head after trying to pull the crux. Luckily it did an excellent job of stopping the fall.
Sep 9, 2011

SCARY. 12 after the last bolt and to the top.
By Zak123
Apr 10, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13

Super fun climb, the crux can be done two different ways each one equally difficult. Once over the roof the climb is not over. The two wrap hangers are still about 8 feet above you so keep that in mind.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Apr 24, 2012

Greasy. My bacon isn't this greasy. Wet. Bad feet. Short. High probability of decking between every bolt. This climb is not in my mind a quality line. Much better 12b's in the canyon to try. Only 3 bolts plus new chain/biner anchors.
By Lotapowder
From: Sandy
Apr 30, 2012

I don't think the greasy comment is appropriate. If you don't like 'em short and stout maybe it's not for you, but IMO it's a really cool 35' boulder problem with bolts.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 2, 2012

SW, "High probability of decking between every bolt". Who is your belayer man..? Maybe you should get one you can trust! I don't think I have ever felt like I would deck on this route if I fell after the first bolt. But then again, I only try to use belayers I can trust. This is a great climb and should be done!
By Tom Hore
May 5, 2012

Guess I'll add a pointless comment as well.
This is actually a good solid 12. "Brief but good grief."
I would recommend going back on a good crisp day as a lot of the harder routes in BBC can feel a bit unnerving in the Spring. I think you will find it's not scary. If you want something as hard if not harder and with more bolts scramble up to Padded Cell it goes at 12C and is directly above Big in Japan.
By Jason MT
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 16, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

If you are concerned about falling on this, it is easy to TR. Just climb the 2 pitch route called Encore (it's a good warm-up anyway.) You can rap down to the Big in Japan anchors from the top using a 60m... but just barely, so make sure your rope is centered.
By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Jun 27, 2012

This thing is classic Big ish and its not that greasy or dangerous give it a quick brush and send
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 23, 2013

oh and if you climb this thing around dusk in late spring, you will be eaten alive by mosquitoes.

+1 for fat back bacon grease.
By jonathan knight
May 20, 2013

Hey Guys, it's really not appropriate to fix draws on climbs that are readily visible from multi-use, developed recreation areas such as the Storm Mountain Picnic Area. That goes for the recent fixed draw escapades over at Cross-Eyed and Painless which is easily visible from the road.

Years ago, one of the first actions of the SLCA was to start a dialogue with the concessionaire running the place that was not allowing climbers access through the picnic area.

Think about it.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jul 13, 2013

Not just the fixed draw, JK, but, the rap chains are super visible. Bright shiny and huge. I appreciate whoever is maintaining routes, but, please, camo the chains. They are REALLY high visibility and the area, with the little amphitheater and paved trails below, is high traffic for non-climbers.
By Lotapowder
From: Sandy
Jul 17, 2013

I agree that the chains could be more inconspicuous, but the Metolius rap hangers are terrible. They kink up the rope and are a pain to thread.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 18, 2013

Fixed draw is back...
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 10, 2015

I first did this route when I was 17 or 18, in 98ish? Came back 17 years later, repeated! Ha. It was surprisingly thuggish. I must have been fit.

Bolts through the roof are both looking worse for wear. I took falls on both of them, but definitely spooky.
By Elias M
Aug 15, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really fun route, a little scary with some decking potential if you blow the clip but the clipping stances are good. Stays shady during the afternoon. Got a video of the climb:

By Seth Reelitz
From: Utah
Jul 2, 2017

I noticed yesterday that all of the old bolts have been replaced with glue-ins.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 11, 2017

Thanks to Jimmy Keithley and Jonathan Knight of the SLCA for the glue-in bolts.

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