Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Devil's Den Bouldering
Select Route:
A Moment Of Light 
Advantageous 
Aretascious 
Arete To Arete 
Ashes To Ashes 
Bad Apple, The 
Big Gulp Project (Doing the Dew Sit-Start) 
Big Ocean, The 
Bradley's Dyno 
Butthole Surfer 
Decomposing Walrus Project, The 
Devil's Trilogy 
Doing The Dew 
Eye Of The Devil 
Faint 
Feeling For The Heavens (aka Slow and Pooky) 
Hug Sit, The 
Hug, The 
Individual Medley 
John's Problem 
Leave It to Beaver 
My Disguise is Seemless 
No One Knows 
Numb Thumb 
Pretty Bloc Swag 
Red 
Red Devil 
Red Right Hand aka Spitting Blood 
Scala 
Scala Variation 
Smoke on the Water 
Surreptitious 
Throng 
Tisk, Tisk 
Tradster 
Trout 
Tusk, The 
Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) 
Up in Smoke 

Big Gulp Project (Doing the Dew Sit-Start) 

Hueco: V13 Font: 8B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V13 Font: 8B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: MattH on Jan 4, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Start on LH undercling on left face, right on pinch edge on arete. Slap RH to higher crimp on arete, then bring LH to a small crimp at the same height on the left face. From here, either do a big dyno to the Doing the Dew start or a big LH deadpoint. Climb that problem to the top. The 2nd move is by far the hardest, but the first and 3rd hand moves are also fairly hard, and the foot movement between them is incredibly tenuous.

Location 

Same as "Doing the Dew". On the 45 degree overhanging arete of the sand-crawler shaped boulder left of the Hug, past Up in Smoke when heading towards the cliffline from the trail.

Protection 

Pads


Comments on Big Gulp Project (Doing the Dew Sit-Start) Add Comment
Show which comments
By MattH
Jan 4, 2016

This was probably around a v11+ problem until a big flake used as a foothold broke this summer, making the 2nd move significantly harder. The movement likely would favor a shorter climber, as the move from the undercling to the crimp is a very narrow compression move. Probably the best undone line at Pawtuckaway.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Jan 4, 2016

I saw Mike Foley working on this the other day. Looks really hard and I think all the moves will go. Thanks for adding it. If you know of any more projects at Pawtuckaway you should post them. I think it motivates people to get out and try them.
By MattH
Jan 5, 2016

I've definitely been motivated by people posting other projects, so I'll post up the ones I've tried (or at least looked at) that I think are any good. I'd obsessed over this line all summer but between a finger & a knee injury (and the difficulty of the line itself) I never sent. Kind of happy to hear it wasn't a quick tick for someone stronger because I wasn't sure if it was only hard because I suck at this style or was actually difficult. This felt harder to me than child of the storm (another line I'd projected this year, linked in parts, and never sent) but it's a bit out of my wheelhouse.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jan 5, 2016

I had posted on the Doing The Dew page about how mike has sent the halfway sit for this, which you still would pretty much start standing up for. It used little crimps and he said it was around v8, but the full sit looks really cool and hard.

By any chance Matt have you looked at the project on the left arete of this boulder? It doesn't look that great but it sure looks hard. There's also supposedly a project on the really tall arete/prow behind Throng (on the same boulder as Ashes to Ashes). I'm not sure if it can even go, it would be incredible if it did.

I'd say the best looking project I've seen at pway is in the roof at the Entrance boulders in Blair, it's the only real roof problem I know of in the park. The only issue is it looks like the last move would either be extremely low percentage and hard or just maybe not even go.

I hope you can get this Matt, try to get some video or pictures too if you do, that would be sweet to see.
By MattH
Jan 5, 2016

I remember looking at the project on the left very briefly and thinking it looked impossible, but that was a very quick glance. The project behind throng looks even more improbable, but would definitely be amazing if done.

I think a number of people have done the mid-start to this line now, but I don't know who the first was. The first time I went to devil's den (early fall of '14) someone was working the full sit and sent it, but it might have been done earlier.

The entrance roof at Blair is awesome, but there didn't seem to be any real holds on the face above. Maybe I was underestimating what's usable due to the summer heat, but the seams felt awfully marginal.

As far as other lines I know of (that aren't in the NEB guidebook), a traverse from the crack into the hug would be doable and has some cool moves despite being a total contrivance - I remember playing around on that last year. The little 45 below Fido also looks like it could house a cool crimp line (I don't have the new guidebook so I don't know if anything has been climbed on it). There's a v1 on that boulder listed in the NEB guidebook but it describes a crack that I don't remember (probably off to one side or the other).
By Graham O.
Jul 15, 2016

I haven't been on this, but I checked it out and all the moves seemed doable. Is it really a solid v13? I know Matt Giossi thinks otherwise. I agree it looks pretty cool though. Calling it the best undone line at Pway is a stretch, but it's an appealing line for sure...
By MattH
Jul 16, 2016

I'd say it's harder than 11 for sure, but considering it's never been done, all estimates are pure speculation, so even that could be wrong. My section breakdown estimate was v8+ into v11+ into v8, so maybe the Boulder math says that it's only v12ish? The only consensus from people who've tried it is that it's hard - v13 was just meant to capture that.. Starting matched on the right hand down low( with the weird narrow left undercling) rather than spread out with a left on the undercling knob would also certainly add an immensely powerful move.

Did you/Matt do the moves? I've never seen the left hand move to the tiny crimp done from the start since the foot broke. That would be sweet - I wrote this thing off after banging my head against the wall on that move for too many days when linking it all.

Out of curiosity, what are the better projects? I probably will be climbing at pawtucaway far less in the future, so it's moot for me anyway, but I assume there are some good lines at Area 51 or magic pond, though I've never been. My statement was more of a comment on what's left in the more popular areas than a comment on the line itself.
By Graham O.
Sep 2, 2016

First of all, I have never been on it but I was told that Matt (Giossi) thought it was around v9. As for better undone lines: As you said, Area 51 certainly has A LOT of potential. So tons of stuff there, to start. The Diving Board Project at Magic Pond, an unnamed project at the Congo Set, the Nightmare Project on the Yosemite Boulder. When I said that I was referring mainly to the Cave Project, but that's been sent now (nice work, Sam!).
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Sep 2, 2016

Maybe v9 from the stand (not doing the dew, but one or two moves below that). One of the crimps on this is literally a ripple, there is no way this is v9.